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Class 9 Weaving and Textile Design Chapter 2 Weaving
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Weaving
Chapter – 2
| Self-Check Questions |
1. Classify (a) Handlooms, (b) Power looms.
Ans: (a) Handlooms: Operated manually by skilled weavers without the use of electricity.The weaver inserts the weft thread into the warp thread by hand.A major development occurred in 1733 when John Kay invented and patented the ‘Flying Shuttle’, which improved the speed of weaving.Handlooms are often used for traditional, artisanal textile production.
(b) Power looms:
Mechanized looms that operate using electric power instead of manual labor.Designed by Edmund Cartwright in 1784 and first built in 1785.Power looms may be semi-automatic or fully automatic, enabling mass production.Further advancements, such as the Lancashire loom (1842), enhanced the efficiency of mechanized weaving.
2. Name the different primary motions in a loom.
Ans: The primary, essential or fundamental motions are designated to those motions or movements of loom without which it is not possible to weave a fabric.
Primary motions are divided into three parts.
They are:
(i) Shedding: Forming shed by splitting warp threads into two layers.
(ii) Picking: Inserting pick or weft thread into the shed
(c) Beating-up: Pushing last weft thread left in the shed to the fell of cloth.
3. Name the different secondary motions in a loom.
Ans: Secondary motions are next in importance to primary motions. Their presence is also necessary for continuous and regular weaving of fabric.
Secondary motions are-
(i) Let-off: Releasing warp from the weaver’s beam and keeping necessary tension in the warp. This motion delivers warp yarn to the weaving area at the required rate.
(ii) Take-up: This operation consists in taking-up the cloth when being woven and then winding it on the cloth roller.
4. Name the different auxiliary motions in a loom.
Ans: Auxiliary or Tertiary motion is required for smooth weaving process. This is done for high productivity and good quality of fabric.
They are-
(i) Warp protector: Protecting warp from damage when shuttle trap occurs in the shed during weaving,
(ii) Weft Fork: Preventing cracks and thin places in cloth by stopping loom when weft is broken or exhausted.
(iii) Brake: Arresting motion of crank shaft when stoppage of the loom occurs.
(iv) Temples: Preventing width way contraction of the cloth at fell.
(v) Top rollers: Assisting reversal of healds.
(vi) Box swell: Arresting momentum of incoming shuttle and running shuttle at box smoothly.
(vii) Check strap: Arresting momentum of incoming shuttle in the box.
(viii) Buffer: Absorbing impact of picker and preventing damage to the picker.
(ix) Oscillating backrest: Regulating tension in the warp during pick cycle for plain weaving.
5. Draw a diagram showing the path of warp in a loom.
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6. Define the following terms:
(a) Weave.
Ans: (a) Weave: Weaving is one of the primary methods of fabric production. It consists of interlacing two separate yarns or threads at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Those two threads are called warp and the weft. The warp threads are held in a loom while weft is inserted through them with predefined order so as to form the fabric.Weaving can be done by hand or by using machines.
(b) Reed Count.
Ans: Reed Count: The reed is a comb fixed on a sley with a reed cap. The open space between two combs or wires is termed a ‘dent’. One, two or more ends are passed through each dent of the reed. A reed contains a definite number of dents on a given length; this is termed the count, the pitch, or the number of the reed. The number of dents on two inches or 5.08cm of the reed gives its counts, i.e., if there be 60 dents on 5.08 cm, it is termed 60’s reed (Stockport system). The Radcliffe, the huddersford, and the American reeds are named from the number of dents contained on one inch or 2.54 cm. The Stockport reed has an extensive use in the cotton industry.
(c) Shedding.
Ans: Shedding: In weaving, the shed is the temporary separation between upper and lower warp yarns through which the weft is woven. The shed is created to make it easy to interlace the weft into the warp and thus create woven fabric. The term shedding refers to the action of creating a shed.
(d) Picking.
Ans: Picking: The transverse threads running from the one selvedge to the other selvedge of the fabric through the division of warp threads are termed ‘weft’. A single thread of weft is known as a ‘pick’. The weft is inserted through the warp using a “shuttle”, air jets or “rapier grippers” etc. Weft is also called ‘filler’.
(e) Beating up.
Ans: Beating up: Beating up is the action of pushing the newly inserted weft yarn into place against the previously woven fabric. This is done using a reed in the loom. The reed ensures that the weft is positioned tightly against the fabric, helping to maintain the desired density and appearance of the woven material.
7. Draw a diagram showing the cross section view of warp yarn for Plain Weave.
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8. What are the different types of modern loom.
Ans: Modern loom means unconventional or shuttle less loom. There has been considerable development in the loom sector during the 20th century. Several types of modern loom have come for industrial use. They are categorised based on the weft insertion system.
(i) Projectile Loom: Projectile loom is a shuttle less loom. In this loom, the picking action is done by a series of small bullet-like projectiles which hold the weft yarn and carry it through the shed and then return empty. Projectile loom has a high speed production than the rapier loom.
(ii) Rapier Loom: Rapier loom is a shuttle less weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through the shed of warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger like carriers called rapiers. There are two types of rapier loom – single rapier and double rapier which may rigid or flexible. It can insert multicolour weft, up to 8.
(iii) Air jet Loom: Air jet weaving loom is that, at which jet of air is used to propel the weft yarn through the shed. They are suitable for medium weight yarns then very light and very heavy yarn. It can insert multicolour weft, up to 8.
(iv) Water jet Loom: In this type of machine a Jet of water is used to insert the weft (widthwise threads) into the warp (length wise threads). The force of water carriers the yarn from one side to the other. This type of loom is suitable for non-absorbent fibres like synthetic fabric and not suitable for absorbent fibre like cotton.
(v) Multiphase Loom: In multiphase loom multiple sheds can be formed at different places, thereby enabling insertion of number of weft yarns one behind the other. Thus productivity can be increased by a great extent. But, it has failed to gain commercial success. There are other varieties of loom also, such as Circular loom where tubular fabrics like hose-pipes and sacks are manufactured andNarrow loom, also known as needle loom and used to manufacture narrow width fabrics like tapes, webbings, ribbons and zipper tapes.
9. Draw a labeled diagram of sley.
Ans:
10. List the functions of:
(a) Reed.
Ans: The functions of the reed are as follows:
(i) It keeps the warp thread in their respective positions.
(ii) It acts as a guide of the shuttle to pass from one shuttle-box to another.
(iii) It beats up the last pick to the fell of the cloth.
(iv) The density of the combs of the reed, in conjunction with the set of the healds, determines the fineness of the cloth.
(v) The openness or closeness in a fabric may also be emphasized by special denting methods.
Various types of reed are in use in the textile trade, such as – expanding reed, flexible reed, gauze reed, leasing reed, ordinary reed, ‘V’ reed, zig-zag reed.
(b) Heald shaft.
Ans: Heald shaft: The functions of a heald shaft may be summed up as following.
(i) It keeps the warp threads in proper order or sequence.
(ii) It forms shedding.
(iii) The predetermined and successive order of elevating and depressing the required number of healds, in each pick of the repeat, goes to form the design or pattern in a fabric.
(iv) It helps to detect the broken ends.
(v) The number of the ends per inch or 2.51 cm. in cloth is determined by the counts of the heald used.
(c) Lease rod.
Ans: Lease rod: The functions of lease rods are the following:
(i) It places the warp threads in serial numbers.
(ii) It helps to detect the broken ends.
(iii) The lease rods are very simple but very effective. implements used to keep the ends separated from each other.
(d) Temple.
Ans: Temple: Functions of a temple include:
(i) It helps to maintain the fabric width during weaving.
(ii) It prevents the edges (selvedges) of the fabric from drawing in too tightly.
(iii) It reduces warp and weft breakages caused by edge tension.
(iv) It ensures the uniform density of the fabric, thus maintaining fabric quality.
(v) It aids in achieving a smooth and even surface on the woven fabric.
11. Explain texture of fabric.
Ans: ‘Texture’ denotes the general quality of a cloth or fabric, and is determined by the density of warp and weft per unit space, the counts of warp and weft, the quality of yarns, cover, feel and fullness.
12. Name and explain the different types of shed along with a diagram.
Ans: Shedding is broadly divided into two classes, namely
(a) Closed shedding and (b) Open shedding.
(a) Closed shedding: In closed shedding mechanism all the warp threads level after the insertion of each pick or weft.
(b) Open shedding: In open shedding the warp is only moved when the pattern requires a change of position. There are two methods of producing closed shedding, viz. (i) Bottom closed shedding and (ii) Centre closed shedding.
(i) Bottom Closed Shedding: Bottom closed shed has a bottom stationary line and a top moving line. All the warp threads, after every pick inserted, return to the bottom line, close shed is formed and then beating takes place. Hence, in order to form a top shed, it is necessary to move some threads through a space equal to twice the depth of a shed, once up and once down, before a fresh selection is made.
(ii) Centre Closed Shedding: This kind of shedding is produced by imparting an upward movement to those threads which are to form the top line and a downward movement to the thread which are to form the bottom line; then after inserting a pick, both the lines meet at the center between the highest and the lowest lines of a divided warp.
Again, there are also two methods of producing open shedding, viz. (i) Open shedding and (ii) Semi-open shedding.
(i) Open Shedding: In open shedding the warp threads form two stationary lines, the top line and bottom line, and changes are made by carrying threads from one fixed line to other. The ascending and descending threads move simultaneously, and form a shed in the minimum of time with comparatively little strain upon the warp, because there is no unnecessary movement given to it and the falling threads help to lift the rising ones.
(ii) Semi-open Shedding: Many shedding motions form a shed which is compounded for the closed and open principles and may be defined as ‘semi-open’. In it the stationary bottom lines is retained, but threads for the top line either pass to the bottom at one movement, or are arrested midway and again carried to the top.
13. What are the different types of picking?
Ans: The different types of picking in weaving are as follows:
(i) Projectile Picking: In this method, the picking action is done by a series of small bullet-like projectiles which hold the weft yarn and carry it through the shed and then return empty. Projectile looms have a high speed of production compared to the rapier loom.
(ii) Rapier Picking: Rapier loom is a shuttle-less weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through the shed of warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger-like carriers called rapiers. There are two types of rapier loom – single rapier and double rapier, which may be rigid or flexible. It can insert multi-color weft, up to 8.
(iii) Air-Jet Picking: Air jet weaving loom is where a jet of air is used to propel the weft yarn through the shed. They are suitable for medium weight yarns rather than very light and very heavy yarn. It can insert multi-color weft, up to 8.
(iv) Water-Jet Picking: In this type of machine, a jet of water is used to insert the weft (widthwise threads) into the warp (lengthwise threads). The force of water carries the yarn from one side to the other. This type of loom is suitable for non-absorbent fibers like synthetic fabric and not suitable for absorbent fibers like cotton.
(v) Multiphase Picking: In a multiphase loom, multiple sheds can be formed at different places, thereby enabling the insertion of a number of weft yarns one behind the other. Thus, productivity can be increased by a great extent.
14. Classify the different types of textile design.
Ans: The structure of a fabric or the method of constructing it, when represented on point paper, is known as ‘Textile Design’.
The textile design may be classified into two kinds, namely:
Structural Design:
Structural design relates to the specific manner in which warp and weft threads are interlaced to form a woven design. This constitutes the Technique of Fabric Structure.
Structural design may be discussed under three categories:
(i) Fundamental Weaves: Interlacing two systems of threads intersecting each other at right angles. This weave has only one warp overlap or weft overlap on each thread within the repeat. Fundamental or basic weaves can be subdivided into three primary classes: Plain, Twill, and Sateen.
(ii) Derived and Combined Weaves: Constructed on the basis of fundamental weaves by changing the original order of the warp or weft threads in the basic weave, by adding the warp or weft overlaps in a certain order, or by rearranging the threads.
(iv) Compound Weaves: Constructed by combining more than two sets of warp and/or weft, often different in types of yarn or color.
(v) Decorative Design: Decorative design means the scheme of ornamentation by which a textile fabric is decorated.Large figure designs are produced in such type of structure.
The Jacquard machine is mostly used for producing decorative designs.
15. Draw a 3end twill weave along with drafting and lifting plan.
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16. Draw a balanced twill weave.
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17. Name four derivatives of plain weave.
Ans: The four derivatives of plain weave are Warp Rib Weave, Weft Rib Weave, Matt or Hopsack Weave, Basket Weave.
(i) Warp Rib Weave: “It can be produced by extending the plain weave vertically.
(ii) Weft Rib Weave: “A plain cloth woven by reversing the conditions of ‘Warp Rib’. It can be produced by extending the plain weave horizontally.”
(iii) Matt / Hopsack Weave: “Matt effects are developed in a fabric by the interlacement of two or more contiguous ends and picks with each other i.e. both horizontally and vertically, so as to form a Chequered or Dice effect on the principles of plain or calico weave.”
(iv) Basket Weave: “Basket weave is produced by combining hopsack or mat weave with warp and weft ribs. It is suitable for fine fabrics only.
18. Name three derivatives of twill weave.
Ans: Three Derivatives of Twill Weave:
(i) Zig-Zag OR Wavy OR Pointed Twill: “One of the simplest forms of modified twill is the zig-zag / waved twill achieved by reversing the direction of the twill at suitable intervals. The reversal can occur either upon a warp direction or weft direction.”
(ii) Broken Twill: “Broken twills are produced by breaking the continuity of any continuous twill weave at either regular or irregular intervals of threads.”
(iii) Diamond Weave: “Diamond design is also a derivative of twill weave. Diamond designs are symmetrical about their vertical and horizontal axis.”
19. Name at least four properties of:
(a) Plain.
Ans: Properties of Plain Weave:
(i) Relatively Stronger fabric.
(ii) Firm texture.
(iii) Hardwearing.
(iv) Relatively cost effective.
(b) Twill.
Ans: Properties of Twill Weave:
(i) It is durable and heavier.
(ii) It is wrinkle resistant.
(iii) It shows twill line.
(iv) It is more pliable drape and handle than plain weave.
(c) Sateen weave.
Ans: Properties of Sateen Weave:
(i) They are either wrap or weft faced weaves.
(ii) Have no prominent weave structures.
(iii) Smooth surface with lustrous surface.
(iv) No poor seam strength due to thread mobility.
20. Draw a diamond design with drafting and lifting plan.
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