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Class 11 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 4 Measurement Techniques
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Measurement Techniques
Chapter: 4
| Session 1: Importance and Method of Taking Body Measurements |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from the choices given below:
1. _______________ is the measurement from the base of neck at the centre back to waist line.
(a) Front waist length.
(b) Across back.
(c) Back waist length.
(d) Armscye depth.
Ans: (c) Back waist length.
2. Round cuff measurement is needed for the construction of _________________.
(a) Shorts.
(b) Full Sleeve Shirt.
(c) T-Shirt.
(d) None.
Ans: (b) Full Sleeve Shirt.
3. The key for correct garment fitting is the ________ and _________ measuring of a body.
(a) Accuracy, perfection.
(b) Adequate, precise.
(c) Variety, style.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (b) Adequate, precise.
4. Shirt length is measured from ________ of the neck to desired length.
(a) Base.
(b) Nape.
(c) Both a and b.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (a) Base.
5 ___________ measurement is estimated by measuring the wrist loosely and adding ½ inch overlap extension to it.
(a) Wrist.
(b) Round Cuff.
(c) Round Neck.
(d) Collar.
Ans: (b) Round Cuff.
B. Short answer questions:
1. Explain the importance of body measurements.
Ans: A garment looks aesthetically pleasing only when it fits the curves of the body. A good fit can be achieved by accurate body measurements. Custom made or tailored garments require a lot of attention to the size and measurements. Hence to exercise utmost care and accuracy, a tailor must have the knowledge of techniques of taking body measurements and recording them as per the requirements of designs and cuts in a garment.
While the body measurements are subjective to every individual, garment sizes are standardized based on anthropometric studies. Such studies classify people into different groups based on the body shape and size. As a result the sizes are standardized by grouping individuals with similar body measurements. Standard sizes are adopted for mass production.
Based on these standard measurements commercial patterns are made available for garment construction. A tailor may use these patterns and alter them for individual requirements or he may create new personalized patterns.
2. Write the method and sequence of taking body measurement for females.
Ans: The various positions on the body where measurements are to be taken are described below:
(i) Bodice Measurements:
(a) Bust: Measure around the fullest part of the bust placing the tape just below the shoulder blades at back.
(b) Waist: To be measured around the waist where the pants or bottoms to be worn.
(c) Hips: To be measured around the fullest part of the hip.
(d) Back width: To be measured across from center of armscye to armscye on back side.
(e) Front Chest: To be measured across from center of armscye to armscye.
(f) Shoulder: Measure from the neck joint to the arm joint along the middle of the shoulder.
(g) Neck: To be measured at the round of neck at just above the collar bone in the front.
(h) Sleeve: To be measured with the arm bent from highest point of shoulder to wrist.
(i) Under the Bust: To be measured around the under the bust.
(j) Wrist: To be measured around.
(k) Upper arm: To be measured around the upper arm.
(l) Calf: To be measured around the calf just below the knee.
(m) Ankle: To be measured around the narrowest part of the ankle.
(n) Nape to waist: To be measured from nape of neck from to waistline passing through the center of the bust.
(o) Front waist length: To be measured from edge of neck from shoulder to waistline passing through the fullest point of the bust.
(p) Shoulder to bust: Measure down from highest point of shoulder to tip of bust.
(q) Distance between bust points: Measure in the horizontal direction, the distance between the two bust .
(r) Back width or across back measurement: Measure across the back from armhole to armhole about 3 inches below base of neck.
(s) Back waist length: To be measured from the centre point of back neck to the centre point of waistline.
(t) Armscye depth: Measure from base of neck at centre back to a point directly below it and in level with the bottom of the arm where it joins the body.
(u) Upper arm circumference: To be measured from the fullest part of the arm.
(v) Lower arm: Measure around the arm at desired level corresponding to the lower edge of the sleeve.
(w) Elbow circumference: Measure around the arm elbow.
(x) Wrist: Measure around the wrist.
(ii) Skirt Measurements:
Waist: Same as for bodice.
Hip: To be measured to the fullest part of the hip in round. (This level will be about 7 to 9 inches below the waist for an average figure).
Waist to hip: Measure down from waist at centre back to fullest part of the hip.
Skirt length: As per requirement the length is to be measured from waistline to the desired length.
(iii) Leg Measurements:
Round thigh: It is measured around the thigh.
Round knee: To be measured by keeping the measuring tape on the round knee and then folding the leg (calf touches the thigh) to get the correct measurement.
Round calf: It is measured around the fullest part of calf.
Round ankle: It is measured around the ankle.
Inseam: Measure down the inner leg seam from crotch to the bottom of the leg.
Body rise: Measure at the side seam from the waistline to the base of a chair/flat surface when seated.
Leg Length: Measure at the side from waist to the foot.
3. Write the method and sequence of taking body measurement for males.
Ans: Many measurements are common for both female and male garments. In addition to women’s measurements fewer measurements are required for men’s garments which are listed below:
(i) Shirt Length: Shirt length should be measured from base of the neck to desired length usually just below where the seat meets the legs.
(ii) Pant Length: Pant length is measured from waist to ankle along with side of the body.
(iii) Round Cuff Measurement: Cuff measurement is estimated by measuring the wrist loosely and adding ½” overlap extension to it.
4. Write short notes on (a) body measurement (b) preparation for measuring.
Ans: (a) Body measurement: A garment looks aesthetically pleasing only when it fits the curves of the body. A good fit can be achieved by accurate body measurements. Custom made or tailored garments require a lot of attention to the size and measurements. Hence to exercise utmost care and accuracy, a tailor must have the knowledge of techniques of taking body measurements and recording them as per the requirements of designs and cuts in a garment.
While the body measurements are subjective to every individual, garment sizes are standardized based on anthropometric studies. Such studies classify people into different groups based on the body shape and size. As a result the sizes are standardized by grouping individuals with similar body measurements. Standard sizes are adopted for mass production.
Based on these standard measurements commercial patterns are made available for garment construction. A tailor may use these patterns and alter them for individual requirements or he may create new personalized patterns.
(b) Preparation for measuring: Since the overall look and fit of a garment are dependent on the accuracy of body measurements, it is important for the tailor to take accurate measurements.
For taking measurements following points must be considered:
(i) A superior quality measuring tape must be used, which is strong and will not stretch.
(ii) The metal end of the tape supposed to be used for vertical measurements and the other end for horizontal and circumference measurements.
(iii) The measurements should be taken over a smooth fitting foundation garment and never over bulky garments.
(iv) Comfortable measurements should be taken rather tight or loose ones.
(v) Hold the tape parallel to the floor for horizontal measurements, and perpendicular to the floor for vertical measurements.
(vi) While taking measurements one should record them in the books.
5. What are the precautions that need to be taken while taking body measurement?
Ans: A tailor must take following precautions while recording measurements:
(i) While recording measurements a tailor must make sure that the customer or the person whose measurements are to be taken is standing straight up right and not slouching.
(ii) Careful and silent observation on customer style, fit or other deviation in figure proportion to be observed and to be noted in diary.
(iii) One must stand erect in front of the mirror while measurements are to be taken.
(iv) For taking round measurements he must ensure that the measuring tape snugs the body and there is no slack.
(v) He must also make the customer feel comfortable while giving his/her measurements.
(vi) He must know when to take straight measurements and when to take circumference measurements.
(vii) While taking circumference measurements, a tailor must make sure that the measurements are taken from the fullest part. For example: round chest or round bust measurements must be taken at the fullest part the chest or bust respectively.
(viii) The measurements must be immediately written on paper so that the chances of forgetting them decreases.
| Session 2: Pattern Making Methods |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks:
1. Drafting is a full scale plan of a garment based on an individual’s direct ____________ .
(a) Garment measurements.
(b) Body measurements.
(c) Waist measurements.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (b) Body measurements.
2. Commercial patterns are usually done on __________ paper.
(a) Tissue.
(b) Brown.
(c) Hard board.
(d) All of the above.
Ans: (a) Tissue.
3. Garment patterns or working patterns are made on the ___________ of block.
(a) Advance.
(b) Basic.
(c) Both a & b.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (b) Basic.
4. Draping allows the fusion designer to work in ________ dimensions.
(a) One.
(b) Two.
(c) Three.
(d) Five.
Ans: (c) Three.
B. Short answer questions:
1. What is pattern making? Explain briefly the pattern making methods.
Ans: Pattern making is a template or a blueprint for the garment on the basis of which we cut the fabric. It is created to transform a designer’s basic idea for a garment into a real piece of apparel. Pattern making is a highly skilled technique, which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction. For successful dress designing, pattern making forms the fundamental step. This function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all components.
A basic pattern can be prepared by one or two methods by either drafting or draping.
(a) Drafting: Drafting may be defined as a system of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical precision on the basis of body measurements. This is an effective and economical method, which can be learned easily. Drafting is a full scale plan of a garment based on an individual’s direct body measurements, which along with some proven formulae are used to develop the shape and fit of a particular garment. This plan or outline is known as draft, which is then transferred on to the cloth to be cut. Drafts are also referred to as blocks, sloper, and master or foundation pattern. It consists of five pattern pieces – Bodice front, bodice back, skirt front, skirt back and sleeve. The basic pattern can have only a minimum number of darts and seams and it should fit the body comfortably without being tight or loose. It does not have any seam allowances.
(b) Draping: Designers prefer to use the draping methods to create their original and new designs. A designer can easily see the proportion, fit, balance, and style lines of a design, exactly as it will look on the bodice. Working with actual materials gives a designer greater inspiration and a better indication of the flow and performance of a fabric.
Draping is a technique used to prepare a 3-dimensional pattern with the help of a dressform by pinning and placing the fabric on the dressform to create a garment. Muslin is mostly used fabric by the designers for draping because it is cost efficient and available in a variety of weights.
(c) Flat Pattern Making: Flat pattern methods provide the versatility to create designs according to the changing fashion. This method requires a basic sloper with comfortable ease to fit a person. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort. Five basic pattern pieces are used for clothing for females. They include a bodice front and bodice back with basic darts, sleeve and a basic skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently women’s styles fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions. A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it. It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily. The flat pattern making method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate.
2. Differentiate between drafting and draping.
Ans:
| Drafting | Draping |
| Drafting may be defined as a system of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical precision on the basis of body measurements. | Draping is a technique used to prepare a 3-dimensional pattern with the help of a dressform by pinning and placing the fabric on the dressform to create a garment. |
| Drafting is done on paper or cardboard. | Muslin is mostly used fabric by the designers for draping because it is cost efficient and available in variety of weights |
| It is a full scale plan of a garment based on an individual’s direct body measurements, using formulae to develop shape and fit. | Designers prefer to use the draping methods to create their original and new designs. |
| The plan or outline is known as draft, which is then transferred on to the cloth to be cut. | A designer can easily see the proportion, fit, balance, and style lines of a design, exactly as it will look on the bodice. |
| It is particularly helpful in the garment industry where more than one piece is made of the same pattern. | Working with actual materials gives a designer greater inspiration and a better indication of the flow and performance of a fabric. |
| Enables good fit. | Various styles can be tried over the model. |
| Time consuming process. | Draping skill is required. |
3. Which of the pattern making method is most preferable for creating patterns for a dress that includes a specific drape or a flowy drape such as a cowl? Support your answer with appropriate reason.
Ans: The most preferable pattern making method for creating patterns for a dress that includes a specific or flowy drape, such as a cowl, is draping.
Reason:
Designers prefer to use the draping methods to create their original and new designs. A designer can easily see the proportion, fit, balance, and style lines of a design, exactly as it will look on the bodice. Working with actual materials gives a designer greater inspiration and a better indication of the flow and performance of a fabric.
Draping is a technique used to prepare a 3-dimensional pattern with the help of a dressform by pinning and placing the fabric on the dressform to create a garment. Muslin is mostly used fabric by the designers for draping because it is cost efficient and available in a variety of weights.
4. Explain the types and uses of paper patterns.
Ans: There are different types of paper patterns. They are:
(i) Standardised paper pattern: Paper pattern prepared using standardized body measurements are standardized paper patterns. This method is being followed in the training and tailoring schools.
(ii) Individual paper pattern: The measurement of a particular person is taken and the pattern is prepared using these individual measurements. The pattern prepared for a particular person will not suit another person. These are usually done at home and in some tailor shops.
(iii) Block paper pattern: Generally, these are made with standard sizes with thick cardboards. These are mostly used in garment industries. The garment made out of these block patterns will fit for those who have measurements equivalent to that of the standardized body measurements. In the garment industry these type of patterns will be helpful to cut a bulk amount of garment in less time.
(iv) Graded paper pattern: Pattern of five consecutive sizes (e.g. 30”, 32”, 34”, 36”, 38” chest size) are marked in one single pattern. The required size according to the individual body measurement is traced separately, cut and used.
(v) Commercial paper Pattern: Commercial patterns are usually done on tissue paper. Since tissue paper is not bulky, it allows many pieces of pattern to be packed compactly in an envelope. The front side of the envelope contains front view, side view and back view of garment design along with the body measurement. While choosing a commercial pattern one must choose according to the body measurement. In commercial patterns, seam allowances are included for safety. Patterns of established companies are usually printed and marked clearly with straight grain lines, seam lines, cutting lines, darts, centre lines and all the necessary construction details. Good patterns are carefully labeled with the following information: the pattern size, name of each pattern (back, front, sleeve etc), number of pieces to cut from each pattern piece etc. In addition, some companies provide instruction sheets explaining the steps involved in using the pattern to cut out the garment, transferring pattern markings, and guidelines for constructing the garment are given in a sewing instruction sheet inside the pattern envelope.
Uses of paper patterns:
The paper patterns for various styles, designs and cuts can be prepared and stored easily to reuse for a new design. The basic pattern with alterations at points can be prepared which can be used later to develop other styles. A number of styles can be developed in a short time and used comfortably even if the person using paper patterns does not have any idea of drafting patterns. They are the cheapest ways of designing used for constructing garments of varied styles.
5. Explain advantages and disadvantages of drafting and draping.
Ans: The advantages and disadvantages of drafting and draping are as under:
Drafting: Advantages-
(i) A usable draft of the precise size, which has been adjusted to suit your individual requirements will enable you to obtain a good fit.
(ii) A pattern draft on thick paper or card board can be preserved for a long time and can be used over and over again.
(iii) It is particularly helpful in the garment industry where more than one piece is made of the same pattern.
(iv) By manipulating the basic sloper pieces, it is possible to produce patterns for complicated and original designs. (For example, the basic sleeve can be adapted for a puff sleeve or a bell sleeve.)
(v) A draft of a particular size can be used to grade drafts of proportionately larger or smaller sizes by following a systematic procedure called “grading”.
Disadvantages-
(i) It is a time consuming process as it takes a lot of time to construct the drafts.
(ii) Unless the techniques and principles of drafting are known, it is difficult for the person to prepare them.
(iii) If only one garment of one pattern is made then constructing the draft may seem less useful.
Draping: Advantages-
(i) Various styles can be tried over the model using draping.
(ii) Very simple to work once when the technique of draping is learnt.
Disadvantages-
(i) Draping skill is required
(ii) It requires a model or a mannequin or a dummy.
(iii) It requires a lot of fabric in meters.
(iv) Laborious process as it takes time.
(v) Not economical as fabric consumption is more.
| Session 3: Importance and Principles of Drafting |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from the choices given below:
1. _______________drawn on paper according to body measurement becomes the foundation for designers to create garments.
(a) Drafting.
(b) Draping.
(c) Pattern pieces.
(d) None.
Ans: (c) Pattern pieces.
2. __________________are to be made larger than body measurements to allow for freedom of movement, ease of action and comfort in wearing.
(a) Patterns.
(b) Grade.
(c) Notches.
(d) None.
Ans: (a) Patterns.
3. Drafting is to be started with _______ part.
(a) Front.
(b) Side.
(c) Back.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (c) Back.
Questions:
1. Explain the importance and Principles of pattern drafting.
Ans: Pattern Drafting requires immense skills and practice. It is where pattern pieces are drawn on paper according to body measurement, which becomes the foundation for designers to create garments.
Pattern drafting is an important part of fashion designing as :
(i) It minimises the chances of any fault during cutting on the fabric, which could prove to be irreversible.
(ii) Correct estimate of the material required can be made.
Principles of drafting:
Drafting can be done either on ordinary brown paper or a chart paper, which should not however be too thin.
(i) To draw an accurate draft, use a pencil, and a ruler for drawing straight lines.
(ii) To get the corners at right angles, keep an L-scale or set squares ready.
(iii) Before drafting, it is essential to understand the procedures and instructions clearly, and to have practice in drawing a well-balanced pattern with smooth curves and straight lines.
One must understand the following principles before starting to attempt drafting:
(i) Patterns are to be made slightly larger than body measurements to allow for freedom of movement, ease of action and comfort in wearing.
(ii) As the left and right sides are the same so half part of front and half part of back is to be drafted. Drafting is to be started with the back part. For sleeves, a full pattern must be drafted.
(iii) Basic blocks include- plain bodice, plain sleeve, and plain skirt without seam allowances should also be made, as they also help in making variations in designs. While cutting, paper patterns are placed on fabric and seam allowances are left.
2. Write steps of drafting a bodice block with sleeves for a child.
Ans: The steps of drafting a bodice block with sleeves for a child are as under:
Sample measurements:
Chest = 22’’
Waist length = 10 ½’’
Waist = 23”
Shoulder= 10”
Sleeve length = 5”
Sleeve width = 5”
Basic Bodice Front and Back:
(i) Bodice Pattern-
For children, the back and front pattern can be drafted within the same rectangle. Construct rectangle ABCD with the following measurements:
Basic bodice pattern
AB= CD = ¼ chest + 2’’ (ease) = 7.5’’
AC = BD = waist length + 1’’= 11.5”
Mark AF = ½ of shoulder = 5’’
AE = Neck = 2 ½” (standard for kids)
AM = 1’’ for back neck depth AN = 3’’ for front neck depth
Give a shape to the back neck line by joining E-M.
Give a shape to the front neck line by joining E-N.
F-G = ½’’ (standard)
Join E-G for a shoulder slope line.
Mark B – L = ½ of shoulder = 5”
H = Centre point of F-K
H- I = ½”
J-K= 1”
Give a curve to the front armhole by joining GIJL.
Give a curve to the back armhole by joining GHL.
(ii) Basic Sleeve pattern:
Basic sleeve pattern
A- B = ½ of shoulder=5”
A- D = 5”
F- C = ½’’
B- E = 2 ½’’ (standard for a child)
Join E – A
G is the centre point of A- E
G- H = ½”
G- I = ¼’’
Give a curve to the front armhole.
Join AHE for back armhole
Join AIE for front armhole
Keep 1” hem allowance at the lower edge of the sleeves.
3. Draw the steps of drafting a bodice block with sleeves for an adult.
Ans: The steps of drafting a bodice block with sleeves for an adult are as under:
Sample measurements:
Full length: 14’’
Shoulder: 14’’
Bust: 34’’
Waist: 28’’
Armhole: 15’’
For Drafting:
Full length = 14” + 1”(seam allowance) =15”
Shoulder = ½ of shoulder=14”/2” = 7”
Bust = ¼ of the bust + 1.5” =34”/ 4 = 8.5” + 1.5”= 10”
Waist = ¼ of waist + 1.5” =28”/4 = 7”+1.5”=8.5”
Armhole = 15”/2= 7.5”
Basic bodice block (front and back):
(i) Bodice pattern-
Adult’s bodice pattern
A- C = B – D is full length + 1” for seam allowance
E-F = 1/4th bust + 1½”
A-E & B-F = ½ of around the arm
A-G &E-H = ½ of shoulder
A-M = 3 ½”
A-N = 3’’ for back neck
Join M – N for back neckline
A-O = 5’’
Join M- O for the front neckline.
G- K is ¾” Join M to K for shoulder slope.
I is the center point of G- H
I – J = ¾”
L- H = 1’’
Give a curve to front armhole by joining KJLF
Give a curve to the back armhole by joining KIF.
C-V = ¼ of waist + 2” (28’’/4+2’’=7+2=9’’)
Join F- V
Darts:
C-P = 4’’
Total dart width is 1”.
P – Q and P- R is ½” on each side
P- S is 4’’ Join Q-S and R-S
F- U + 5’’
S – T = 1’’
Join U – T. Keep dart width 1/2’’
u-w and u-x are ½’’ on each side.
Join w-t and x-t
(ii) Basic Sleeve Pattern-
A-B & C- D = ½ of Armhole (15’’/2=7.5’’)
A-C&B-D = 7’’ for sleeve length
B – E = 4’’
Join A- E with a straight line. G is the centre point of A-E.
G-H = ¾”
G – I = ½”
Give a shape to the front armhole by joining AIE
Give a shape to the back armhole by joining AHE
C – F = ½ of around the arm + 1’’
Join E-F with a straight line.
Adult’s sleeve block
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