Class 11 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 2 Sewing Tools and Sewing Machine Operation Solutions English Medium As Per AHSEC New Syllabus to each chapter is provided in the list so that you can easily browse through different chapters Class 11 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 2 Sewing Tools and Sewing Machine Operation Question Answer and select need one. Class 11 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 2 Sewing Tools and Sewing Machine Operation Notes Download PDF. AHSEC Class 11 Elective Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Question Answer English Medium.
Class 11 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 2 Sewing Tools and Sewing Machine Operation
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Sewing Tools and Sewing Machine Operation
Chapter: 2
| Session 1: Measuring and Marking Tools and Their Usage |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks:
1. Tailor’s chalk is used to _________________ on to the fabric.
Ans: Transfer marking.
2. The available varieties of fabric-marking pens are and ________________ .
Ans: Air-erasable and water-soluble.
3. The short arm of the L-square measures 14 inches and the long arm measures _______________ .
Ans: 24 inches.
4. A ____________ curve is a template made out of metal, wood or plastic composed of many different curves.
Ans: French.
5. The correct selection of pins for the specific fabric is important as a wrong pin used may create a ___________ in the fabric.
Ans: Defect.
6. ______________ helps in marking the measurements and pattern on the wrong side of the fabric using the tracing paper.
Ans: Tracing wheel.
B. Short answer questions:
1. Explain the various measuring tools and its uses.
Ans: Taking correct and accurate measurements is an important step in making customized tailor clothing or even in constructing other articles. Correct body measurements are essential for making a precise fit pattern of the garment to be sewn. For this crucial step, the selection of the measuring tool needs to be correct, for example, to take the measurements for a garment, flexible measuring tape would be required, but for measuring cloth a stiff measuring equipment might be needed.
Different types of measuring tools that help do the job as desired are:
(i) Measuring Tape: It is a metal-tipped plastic tape used to take measurements. The size of a measuring tape is typically ½ inch to ¼ inch wide and 60 inches long, with ⅛ divisions. The tape is commonly used to measure body dimensions like round chest, round waist, and garment length.
(ii) Ruler: A ruler is a stick made of plastic, metal, or wood with markings for measurements. It is used for taking straight measurements on paper or fabric. A tailor typically uses two rulers, one 1-inch wide and 6 inches long, and the other 2 inches wide and 18 inches long.
(iii) Yardstick: It is a straight edge tool similar to a ruler, used for measuring lengths up to a yard. Yardsticks are particularly useful for drawing long seam lines on paper or fabric.
(iv) L-Square: An L-shaped wooden or metal ruler with one arm measuring 24 inches and the short arm measuring 14 inches. It is used to draw right-angled lines during pattern drafting.
(v) Gauge: A hem gauge is useful to mark areas where constant measurement is desired. It is ideal for marking hems, tucks, top stitching lines, pleats, buttonhole placements and lengths. It can also be used as a stitching gauge for measuring distances that are not marked on the sewing machine. A gauge can be made for any measurements according to the pattern requirement. Notches can be cut on the gauge for marking on the fabric.
(vi) French curves: These are plastic, wood or metal templates with an edge composed of different curves. It is used in making pattern drafts,to draw smooth curves of varying radii. In garment making, French curves are mainly used for pattern drafting, pattern alteration and for shaping the armhole and neckline.
(vii) Vary form curve: It is the most accepted contour ruler. It is basically an elongated French curve. This tool is used by pattern makers, graphic artists, illustrators, etc., to sketch smooth curved lines. The vary form curve draws a wide variety of curves by turning smoothly. They are especially helpful to the pattern makers for drawing more defined curves of the neckline, collar design, sleeve caps, pocket contour, armhole, elbow, skirt, trousers, or when a specific contour is required.
2. Explain the various marking tools and its uses.
Ans: The printed symbols and markings on the patterns must be transferred to the fabric to accurately match the seams and position of pockets, folds, buttonholes, darts, tucks and pleats. The objective of marking is to create precise marks that are not permanent or stain the fabric, but are visible during construction.
Various marking tools used in garment construction include:
(i) Tracing wheel: It helps in marking the measurements and pattern on the wrong side of the fabric using tracing paper. Tracing wheels are available in two styles: one with a small serrated edge for most fabrics and another with a smooth edge for fine or knit fabrics.
(ii) Tracing papers and sheets: A tracing paper is used with the tracing wheel, pen or pencil to transfer pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Care must be taken when choosing from the wide range of available colours, since most varieties produce a mark that remains on the fabric until it has been washed.
(iii) Tailor’s chalk: These are thin pieces of hard chalk available in several colours. These are ideally used for marking construction lines and alteration marks while fitting. Since chalk rubs off easily, it should be used only when stitching has to be done immediately.
(iv) Tailor’s wax: It has a consistency like that of a crayon. It is especially suitable for use on wool or worsted materials. It is available in a wide range of colours that is, white, yellow, red, blue, black and fluorescent green, etc. The marks it produces can only be removed from the fabric with heat or washing.
(v) Fabric-marking Pens: Such pens are air erasable or water-soluble. These are specifically used for marking designs. After tracing the design, the color can last for a long time but disappears completely at once when damped with water. Air-erasable pens are especially used for dressmaking, shoe making, handicrafts, embroidery, etc., for temporary marking.
(vi) Pins: Dressmaking pins are mainly made of stainless steel or brass and are sized from 10 to 32. The size 17 is the general-purpose dressmaker’s pin, but there are several special varieties that can be useful. Their main function is to hold the paper or fabric in position during marking, cutting, and stitching.
(vii) Notcher: It is used to cut a small opening or notch at the edge of a pattern. These notches are used to indicate centre lines, seam allowances and matching points while assembling cut garment pieces.
(viii) Awl or stiletto: It is a pointed metal tool with wooden handle. It is used for piercing holes in pattern for showing dart point, marking buttonhole placement, forming eyelets for belts etc.
| Session 2: Cutting Tools and Usage |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks:
1. _____________ are used to align pattern pieces.
Ans: Notches.
2. A _____________ is used to rip or open seams.
Ans: Seam ripper.
3. ____________ shears are useful in finishing raw edges of fabric or to produce a decorative edge.
Ans: Pinking.
4. ______________ is a small tool specifically used for cutting extra threads.
Ans: Thread cutter.
5. The cutting table is mostly covered with ________, which allows the pins to be placed into the surface.
Ans: Thick felt .
6. ________________ is the main tool for cutting fabric.
Ans: Scissors.
B. Questions:
1. Make a list of cutting tools and give their uses.
Ans: Scissors and shears are the important tools to the tailor. Scissors and shears of various types and sizes are designed to perform different constructional work and have varied applicability. Common working principles of scissors and shears are similar while they differ in their application. Shears have one finger ring bigger than the other for better grip while cutting thick or several layers of patterns. Whereas scissors have identical round finger rings.
Some of the important cutting tools that a tailor must be aware about are listed below:
(i) Bent-handled shears: These shears are commonly available with 7-inch or 8-inch blades. The bent handle allows the fabric to lie smooth and straight when it is being cut, thus yielding better control over the cutting edge. These shears are available in right-handed or left-handed styles. These are used to cut fabrics only.
(ii) Scissors: These are the main tool for cutting fabric. Scissors have sharp, pointed and slender blades, used for cutting of different materials. These scissors are mostly 3 to 10 inches long in size. These have round handles for both the blades. Specific fabric-cutting scissors should not be used for cutting of heavy material as it may reduce the sharpness of the blades.
(iii) Pinking shears: These shears are generally 9 to10 inches long. It is useful in finishing raw edges of fabric or to produce a decorative edge. It is one of the best shears for edge finishing of various types of fabrics, which do not ravel too badly. It creates a clean zigzag cut line on any material including fabric. Pinking shears produce a notched cutting line (zigzag) to give a neat look to the inside of the garment and also prevent raveling.
(iv) Embroidery scissors: These scissors are small, usually 4–5 inches in length with very sharp blades, used for all- purpose needlework, ripping and for making buttonholes .
(v) Buttonhole scissors: These scissors have notched blades. They are useful for making many buttonholes. These scissors have a bolt and lock nut which is adjusted to cut a buttonhole of any length up to 1.5inches.
2. Write short notes on the following:
(a) Pinking shears.
Ans: These shears are generally 9 to10 inches long. It is useful in finishing raw edges of fabric or to produce a decorative edge. It is one of the best shears for edge finishing of various types of fabrics, which do not ravel too badly. It creates a clean zigzag cut line on any material including fabric. Pinking shears produce a notched cutting line (zigzag) to give a neat look to the inside of the garment and also prevent raveling.
(b) Round Knife Cutting Machine.
Ans: A round knife cutting machine helps in cutting more than five layers of fabric at a time. It is electrically operated having a round circular shaped blade with a guard in the front of the blade. It is generally used in small garment manufacturing units. There are several sizes and types of rotary cutters available. Smaller diameter blades make cutting out curves and details much easier; whereas the larger-diameter blades make quick work of long, straight cuts
(c) Cutting table.
Ans: It is a large, flat table used to spread the fabric and patterns while marking, pinning, and cutting. They are often covered with thick felt, which allows the pins to be placed into the surface.
| Session 3: Needles and Threads |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks:
1. Machine sewing needles are available from sizes ________ to _________.
Ans: 9,18.
2. _____________ thread comprise of filament fibers.
Ans: Filament.
3. _____________ needle is used to sew different varieties of fabrics including woven and knitted fabrics.
Ans: Universal point.
B. Short answer questions:
1. Explain hand sewing needles in brief.
Ans: These needles are used for hand sewing or embroidery. Needles are mostly available in different sizes from the very small size 9 to the heavy size18.
(i) Milliner needles: are long needles used for tacking or basting.
(ii) Sharp needles: are medium length needles used on all types of fabric for hand sewing.
(iii) Between needles: are small, short length needles used for fine stitches.
The selection of hand sewing needles depends on the work to be done and the type of fabric. For hand sewing, medium length needles with a short oval eye are selected whereas, for embroidery work, crewel needles with a long oval eye are selected. The hand sewing needle has three parts— the eye, stem and point.
2. Describe the different points of sewing machine needles.
Ans: It is the tapered end of the needle and is often considered the most critical part of the needle. Mostly, the needles have a round point, ball point, or a cutting point. Generally, round points and ball points are used for woven and knit fabrics because they can penetrate the fabric by spreading the fibers or deflecting the yarns without damaging them, while needles with cutting points are used mainly for leather.
3. Write short notes on:
(a) Natural threads.
Ans: Natural threads are made from natural fibers like cotton, silk, and wool. These threads are commonly used in sewing for hand stitching or machine stitching. Cotton thread is most widely used, while silk and wool threads are used for more delicate and high-quality stitching.
(b) Ball point needles.
Ans: These types of general-purpose needles have slightly rounded points and are used for stitching knitted fabrics. The rounded point of such needles prevents damaging of the knitted fabric while the needle penetrates the fabric. Sizes of such needles are 70/10 to 100.
(c) Thread.
Ans: Thread is a continuous strand of material used for stitching or sewing fabrics together. Threads can be made from various fibers, including cotton, polyester, and nylon, and come in different thicknesses. The thread should be chosen based on the fabric type and the nature of the stitching required.
C. Long answer questions:
1. Explain the different parts of a sewing machine needle in detail.
Ans: The different parts of a sewing machine needle are as follows:
(i) Butt: It is a small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is designed to make a single point contact with the hole in the needle bar.
(ii) Shank: The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle bar by the needle screw is the shank. The shank is usually round, but it can have one or two flat sides. Designed to support and stabilize the needle blade, the diameter of the shank is mostly larger than the diameter of the blade.
(iii) Shoulder: This is the beginning of the shank, just above the needle blade.
(iv) Blade: The blade is the thin section of the sewing needle that extends from the shank to the eye. It can be easily bent and should be examined regularly for straightening.
(v) Scarf: The scarf is a small indentation above the eye that permits the hook to pick up the thread loop. On some needles, the scarf is elongated and/or deeper to ensure that the needle thread loop will be large enough to prevent skipped stitches.
(vi) Short Groove: It is placed in the side of the needle where the hook or looper is placed. This small groove helps the sewing thread create a loop.
(vii) Eye: It is an opening in the needle blade at the lower end of the long groove. It carries the thread into the fabric to the hook or looper to make a stitch. The size of the eye is proportional to the diameter of the blade.
(viii) Point: It is the tapered end of the needle, often considered the most critical part. Points can be round, ballpoint, or cutting. Round and ballpoint needles are used for woven and knit fabrics because they can penetrate fabric without damaging it. Cutting point needles are used mainly for leather.
| Session 4: Preparation and Operation of Sewing Machine |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks:
1. Speed of sewing machine can be controlled by the _______________ .
Ans: Foot control.
2. The bobbin turns ________________when the thread is pulled.
Ans: Clockwise.
3. When the reverse stitching lever is pushed, the cloth feed direction for sewing will be ___________.
Ans: Reversed.
B. Short answer questions:
1. Write steps of threading the sewing machine.
Ans: The steps for threading the sewing machine are listed below:
(a) Place the thread spool on the spool pin.
(b) Guide the thread through the thread guide.
(c) Pass the thread through the tension discs.
(d) Insert the thread into the take-up lever.
(e) Thread the needle from front to back.
(f) Ensure the thread is properly placed in the needle’s eye.
2. Write short notes on:
(a) The steps for operating the sewing machine.
Ans: The steps for preparing a sewing machine for stitching are listed below:
(a) Connect the machine to the power supply: Plug in the machine and switch on the power supply.
(b) Placement of foot control: Position the foot control properly to operate the sewing machine.
(c) Adjust the presser foot: Set the appropriate pressure on the fabric according to its thickness.
(d) Wind the bobbin: Place the thread on the bobbin winder and wind the bobbin.
(e) Select the correct needle and thread for sewing: Choose the appropriate needle and thread for the fabric.
(f) Fix the needle into needle bar: Insert the needle and tighten the clamp to secure it.
(g) Set the bobbin and bobbin case in the machine: Place the bobbin in the bobbin case and ensure proper threading.
(h) Thread the machine: Follow the machine’s threading guide to thread the upper part.
(i) Adjust the thread tension: Ensures balanced stitches by controlling the tightness of the upper and bobbin threads.
(j) Adjust the stitch length: Determines the size of each stitch, impacting the fabric’s durability and appearance.
(k) Check the stitch formation: Verifies that stitches are consistent, even, and free from loops or skipped stitches.
(l) Check the reverse stitching lever: Confirms proper function for securing seams at the beginning and end of stitching lines.
(b) Placement of foot control.
Ans: (i) The speed of the sewing machine can be controlled by the foot control. The stronger it is pressed on the control, the faster the machine runs.
(ii) The foot control should be placed at the correct position for the tailor to operate it comfortably.
(c) Adjusting the stitch length.
Ans: A stitch length regulator/dial is used to adjust the stitch length and get the desired length. The stitch length regulator/dial controls the distance that the feed dogs move the fabric to the back of the machine to make a single stitch. The bigger number on the stitch length dial produces a long stitch, and the smaller number produces a smaller stitch.
3. Write about adjusting the pressure of the presser foot.
Ans: It is important for a tailor to have complete knowledge of the required pressure on the material, and method of adjusting the pressure when needed. The pressure of the presser foot is required to be adjusted as per the thickness or heaviness of the fabric/material to be sewn. Heavy fabrics require more pressure than the lightweight fabrics. The pressure should be heavy enough to prevent the fabric from rising with the needle, and to enable the feed to move the fabric along evenly without side creeping.
The pressure of the presser foot can be adjusted by using the thumbscrew. To increase the pressure, turn the thumbscrew clockwise or downward. To lighten the pressure, turn the thumbscrew anticlockwise. When the pressure is appropriately applied correct stitches will be formed.
C. Long answer questions:
1. Explain the thread tension as per the stitch formation with a diagram.
Ans: For good quality stitching, a balanced tension or balanced stitches are desirable. When the tension of the upper and lower thread is balanced, the threads interlock in the middle of the fabric to make perfect or balanced stitches. Adjust the tensions only as needed until the stitch is balanced. The tension of the stitch is regulated by two controls.
(i) Upper thread tension: After lowering the presser foot, turn the nut to adjust the upper thread tension. For this, turn the nut to the left to loosen it. Turn it to the right to tighten.
(ii) It is adjusted by tightening/loosening the screw of the bobbin case. The bobbin case screw is very short and will fall out if turned too far. The bobbin case tension screw, which is located on the bobbin case, controls the tightness of the bobbin case spring. These controls increase or decrease the amount of pressure on the threads as they feed through the machine.
Appropriate thread tension is needed for perfect stitching. The tension on the needle and the bobbin threads must be heavy enough to pull the threads to the centre of the thickness of the fabric and make a firm stitch.
2. Explain the winding of bobbin and its setting in the machine.
Ans: Wind the bobbin- A sewing machine has two thread sources for stitching-a top thread and a lower bobbin thread.
The following steps are to be followed to fill the bobbin:
(i) To wind the bobbin with the thread, place the bobbin spool on the bobbin winder fitted on the top.
(ii) Wrap the thread from the reel placed in the thread spool around the bobbin.
(iii) Press the treadle/foot control or turn the hand wheel to start winding.
(iv) The winding in the bobbin should be uniform.
(v) Once the bobbin is sufficiently filled with thread, stop winding and remove the bobbin.
Set the bobbin and bobbin case in the machine:
(i) Hold the wound bobbin and bobbin case with both hands. Place the bobbin in the bobbin case correctly.
(ii) Pass the thread through a small notch at the front of the bobbin case and then pull the thread out.
(iii) It should be checked that the bobbin should move clockwise when the thread is pulled out.
(iv) Leave the end of the thread outside the bobbin case. It should be brought up through the hole in the throat plate after the top thread is threaded.
(v) Hold the latch of the bobbin case and fix into the rotary hook..
(vi) Lock the bobbin case in the machine.
3. Describe the operating procedure of a sewing machine and the precautions while sewing.
Ans: Single needle sewing machines are mostly used in domestic tailoring and also in industrial or commercial production. They are most commonly used as they serve the purpose of basic seam formation. As the name suggests, the machine uses a single needle to make a single seam line. The stitch is formed by interlocking two threads—the upper and the lower bobbin thread.
The following are the steps for operating a single needle sewing machine:
(a) Sew on the fabric:
(i) Raise the presser foot and then turn the flywheel so that the take-up lever is at its highest level.
(ii) Pull the upper and lower threads straight backside under the presser foot to avoid them from knotting at the beginning of the stitching line.
(iii) Place the fabric to be stitched under the presser foot, allowing the seam allowance to the right side of the needle and the rest of the fabric to the left.
(iv) Turn the flywheel until the needle point enters the fabric at the exact beginning point.
(v) Lower the presser foot and then start the machine slowly, simultaneously guiding the fabric gently with the hand.
(vi) To check stitch length and proper tension, first stitch on a scrap, that is rough cloth. Finalize it and then stitch on the final material.
(vii) Gradually, increase the speed of the sewing machine for stitching.
(viii) The fabric will move forward and the stitch will be formed continuously.
(ix) Before the end of the stitching line, stitch slowly with the right hand on the fly wheel and left hand on the fabric that is being worked on (while using hand machine). Stop the machine in time to not sew beyond the fabric.
(x) Take the presser up , then pull the material straight back with threads under the presser foot to avoid bending of the needle.
(xi) Cut the threads using the thread cutter or scissors.
Precautions:
(i) Do not pull the material/fabric forward or backward, but hold the two layers slightly tight and firm at the back and front of the presser foot.
(ii) Keep the take-up lever at its highest point to avoid unthreading the needle when beginning to stitch again.
(iii) Leave about two to four inches of thread, extending from the machine to prevent unthreading.
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