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Class 11 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 3 Basic of Garment Construction
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Basic of Garment Construction
Chapter: 3
| Session 1: Various Types of Stitch |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from the choices given below:
1._____________ stitch forms part of a stitched garment.
(a) Temporary.
(b) Permanent.
(c) Constructive.
(d) Hem.
Ans: (b) Permanent.
2. __________ stitch is of equal length about ¼ inch on both sides of the fabric.
(a) Uneven basting.
(b) Slip basting.
(c) Diagonal basting.
(d) Even basting.
Ans: (d) Even basting.
3. Stitch is used for hems on medium or light weight fabrics.
(a) Hem.
(b) Back.
(c) Run and back.
(d) Decorative.
Ans: (a) Hem.
B. Short answer questions:
1. Write short notes on the following:
(a) Decorative stitches.
Ans: These stitches are also known as embroidery stitches. This art is practised on all kinds of pliable material with different types of threads, precious and semiprecious stones, pearls, shells, beads, etc. There are different kinds of hand embroidery stitches. Some of the common hand embroidery stitches are stem stitch, chain stitch, herringbone stitch, feather stitch, lazy-daisy, satin stitch, cross stitch, Bullion stitch, etc., which are used to decorate garments, home furnishing items and other articles.
(b) Buttonhole stitch.
Ans: This stitch is worked with the needle pointing towards the worker, and the fabric edge away from the worker. To carry out the stitch, the needle is inserted in the right side of the edge of the buttonhole. And brought out ⅛ inch below. The thread is then looped hanging from the eye of the needle from right to left under the point of the needle and draw the needle upwards to knot the thread at the buttonhole edge.
C. Long answer questions:
1. Describe how to make temporary stitches.
Ans: Such stitches are used to hold the garment or fabric pieces together before permanent stitches are made. These stitches are also known as tacking or basting stitches. Usually, this stitch is horizontal and it is worked from the right to the left side with a knot.
Various kinds of tacking or basting stitches are as follows:
(i) Even basting: It is used to hold the fabric together temporarily, but more securely than in uneven basting. In such stitches the stitch length of each stitch is kept equal. It is done by making even stitches of about ¼ inch to ⅜ inch long. When easing one layer of the fabric to another layer, the layer to be eased is held on top and this top layer is gathered to stitch.
(ii) Uneven basting: This is used to mark or to hold fabrics together, only where there is no strain on the stitches. In such stitches the stitch length of each stitch is kept unequal. It is done by making a long stitch, about ½ inch on one side of the fabric and then a short stitch ¼ inch on the other side of the fabric.
(iii) Diagonal basting: This is used to hold two pieces of fabric together when more than one row of tacking is required. For example, when you are attaching interfacing to a collar or mounting a fabric onto an underlining, etc. It may be done vertically or horizontally.
(iv) Slip basting: Also called invisible hand basting, it is used when working from the right side of the fabric, and to mark fitting alterations, or on occasions where patterns have to be joined accurately. For example, strips, checks, etc.. It is done by turning one edge of the material on the seam line. Then, pinning the folded edge carefully to the seam line on the other edge with pins at right angles to the seam. Even tacking stitches are then made alternately through the fold and through the single edge on the seam line.
2. Describe how to make permanent stitches.
Ans: The stitches that form a part of the stitched garment are called permanent stitches:
(i) Running stitch: This is the simplest form of hand stitch which is used mainly for gathering and shirring fabrics. When using for both gathering and shirring, one must make sure that enough thread should be left to make an unbroken line of stitches. It is similar to the even basting, but the stitches are much smaller (stitch length is less). The stitches should be straight, fine and evenly spaced and mostly about 1/16 inch to ⅛ inch in length. To carry out the running stitch, several very small stitches are taken on to the point of the needle before drawing the thread through the fabric. The stitches should be as small as the thickness of the fabric to allow less than 2mm on fine fabrics.
(ii) Back stitch: It is considered to be very strong and is often used as a substitute for machine stitching. It is mainly applied when extra strength is needed. Back stitch is very useful for making strong seams and for finishing a line of stitching. The stitches on the front are small and appear continuous. To make the back stitch, a small stitch back from left to right is made. Then a double length stitch forward on the wrong side of the fabric is made. So the needle emerges a stitch’s length in front of the first one. It is repeated this way, keeping the stitches uniform in size and fairly firm.
(iii) Run and back or combination stitch: In this combination, a back stitch and three or four running stitches are combined and can be used for working plain seams done by hand. This stitch is worked faster than the back stitch and stronger than the running stitch.
(iv) Hem stitch: It is used for hems on medium weight or lightweight fabrics. It is mainly used to fasten a raw edge which should be turned in or to flatten a seam. It appears as small slanting stitches on the wrong side of the fabric. The stitch size will depend on the fabric. The thread should not be pulled taut or the fabric will pucker.
| Session 2: Different Type of Seams |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from the choices given below:
1. Channel seam is a ________ seam.
(a) Decorative.
(b) Functional.
(c) Temporary.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (a) Decorative.
2. ___________ seam is used for joining section or parts of interfacing to avoid bulk.
(a) Welt.
(b) Lapped.
(c) Channel.
(d) French.
Ans: (b) Lapped.
3. Tucked seam is a ____________ seam.
(a) Functional.
(b) Decorative.
(c) Temporary.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (b) Decorative.
4. ________ is a seam within a seam.
(a) Flat.
(b) French.
(c) Lapped.
(d) Channel.
Ans: (b) French.
B. Short answer questions:
1. Write short notes on the following.
(a) Double stitch seam.
Ans: It is used mainly for sheer fabrics. To construct this seam:
(i) Take the right sides of the fabric together, tack and stitch along the seam line and press as stitched.
(ii) Sew another line of stitching in the seam allowance ¼ inch from the first line, using a fine multi stitch zigzag or straight stitch.
(iii) Then trim the raw edge using a scissors or a pinking shear to prevent the fabric from fraying.
(b) Lapped seam.
Ans: This seam is used for joining sections of interfacing to avoid bulking, that is a mass of fabric getting thick. To construct a lapped seam:
(i) Lap one edge of the fabric over the other with the seam lines directly over each other.
(ii) Tack and then stitch along the seam line with a wide zigzag stitch or a straight stitch.
(iii) Trim the seam edges.
(c) Lingerie seam.
Ans: It is used mainly for making very fine seams. It is so named because of its use in lingerie. To make the seam:
(i) With the right sides of the fabric facing; pin, tack and then stitch along the seam line.
(ii) Then press as stitched.
(iii) Finish the seam edges with pinking scissors and press both seam allowances to one side.
(iv) Stitch seam edges on the right side with small zigzag stitches.
C. Long answer question:
1. Describe the various types of seams in detail along with a diagram.
Ans: Seams refer to the stitching line where two pieces of fabric are stitched together. It is the basic building unit of any garment or stitched article. It is an application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several thickness of material. Seams mainly construct the structure of the garment or stitched article.
There are different types of seams, and the type of fabric and garment should determine the one you select. Some commonly used seams are given below:
(a) Plain seam: It is the basic seam (functional seam), joining the edges of two pieces of fabric. This seam is used on medium weight fabrics where there is no special strain on the seam. Mostly, plain straight stitch is used to stitch the seam. Plain seam can be used on most of the garments and the seam edges should always be finished as appropriate for the type of fabric. Although a plain seam is always made with the right side of the fabric facing each other, some other seams will require to be initiated with the wrong sides of the fabric facing each other.
For constructing a plain seam:
(i) With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, pin the fabric together at both the ends of the seam line and at intervals along the seam line leaving an allowance of about ¾ inches properly, close to the seam line.
(ii) Then stitch along the seam line, back stitch a couple of stitches at each end to secure the seam, and remove the pins.
(iii) After removing the pins, finish the seam edge by pinking it or as necessary for the fabric.
(iv) Press the seam as stitched and then press it open, using a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric.
(b) Channel seam: This is a decorative seam mostly used in trousers, pockets of jeans, jackets, etc.. It has a strip of fabric behind it which is visible through the seam fold. It can be made of contrasting fabric, if desired.
For constructing a channel seam:
(i) With the right sides of the fabric together, pin and tack along the seam line.
(ii) Press the seam open and cut an underlay of the same or contrasting fabric 1 inch wider than the two seam edges.
(iii) With the wrong side of the work facing you, centre the right side of the underlay on the seam and pin in the position.
(iv) Pin and then stitch an equal distance, each side from the seam depression.
(v) Remove the pins and tacking, then press as stitched.
(c) Lapped seam: This seam is used for joining sections of interfacing to avoid bulking, that is a mass of fabric getting thick. To construct a lapped seam:
(i) Lap one edge of the fabric over the other with the seam lines directly over each other.
(ii) Tack and then stitch along the seam line with a wide zigzag stitch or a straight stitch.
(iii) Trim the seam edges.
(d) Flat felled seam: This is a flat, durable and strong seam used mainly on men’s sports shirts, work clothes, children’s clothes and pajamas. It is time consuming and difficult to make on curved edges and on bulky fabrics.
To construct a flat felled seam:
(i) Place the fabric pieces to be joined at the wrong side facing each other, and then stitch on the seam line.
(ii) Press both seam allowances together in the same direction and trim the under seam allowance to ⅛ inch and the upper one to ⅜ inch.
(iii) Turn under the raw edge of the wide seam allowance so as to make a smooth fold of ¼ inch wide.
(iv) Stitch close to the folded edge on the right side of the garment.
(v) The right side of the seam shows two rows of stitching and the wrong side shows only one row of stitching.
(e) French seam: It is a narrow seam generally used for fine fabrics or for those fabrics which fray easily. It is a seam within a seam. When finished, it should be about¼ inch or less in width.
To construct a French seam:
(i) Place the wrong sides of the fabric together.
(ii) Pin and tack in position close to the seam line.
(iii) Stitch¼inchtotherightoftheseamline to the end of the seam.
(iv) Press as stitched.
(v) Pressing can be done using hands to form a crease or using a heat pressing iron.
(vi) Then trim the seam allowance to ⅛inch.
(vii) Press the seam open.
(viii) Then turn the right sides of the fabric together.
(ix) Fold on the stitch line and press.
(x) Tack in position.
(xi) Stitch along the seam line and press as stitched.
(f) Mantua maker’s seam: It is used to attach a frill to a straight piece of fabric.
To construct this seam:
(i) With the right sides of the fabric together, tack along the seam line and stitch.
(ii) Trim the frill seam allowance to ¼ inch.
(iii) Double fold the other seam allowance over the raw edge down to the seam line.
(iv) Stitch very close to the seam line then remove tacking and press the seam upwards, keeping away from the frill.
(g) Double stitch seam: It is used mainly for sheer fabrics. To construct this seam:
(i) Take the right sides of the fabric together, tack and stitch along the seam line and press as stitched.
(ii) Sew another line of stitching in the seam allowance ¼ inch from the first line, using a fine multi stitch zigzag or straight stitch.
(iii) Then trim the raw edge using a scissors or a pinking shear to prevent the fabric from fraying.
(h) Lingerie seam: It is used mainly for making very fine seams. It is so named because of its use in lingerie. To make the seam:
(i) With the right sides of the fabric facing; pin, tack and then stitch along the seam line.
(ii) Then press as stitched.
(iii) Finish the seam edges with pinking scissors and press both seam allowances to one side.
(iv) Stitch seam edges on the right side with small zigzag stitches.
(i) Tucked seam It is a decorative seam and generally used as a design feature on a garment. If a tucked seam is used on a fabric which frays easily, the seam edges should be finished by over sewing. To make a tucked seam:
(i) With the right side of the fabric facing you, turn under the seam allowance on one piece of fabric, and then pin it into place.
(ii) Place the folded edge of the seam line on the right side of the second piece of fabric, putting the edges together.
(iii) Tack and stitch the desired width from the folded edge.
(iv) Remove tacking threads and trim off the seam edge underneath the seam.
(v) Press as stitched.
| Session 3: Seam Finishes |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from the choices given below:
1. Seam edge is trimmed with pinking shears and gives a zigzag appearance.
(a) Pinked finish.
(b) Herringbone.
(c) Double-stitch finish.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (a) Pinked finish.
2. In ___________, a separate piece of binding is attached to both seam edges.
(a) Pinked edge.
(b) Bound seam edge finish.
(c) Herringbone finish.
(d) Double stitch.
Ans: (b) Bound seam edge finish.
3. ____________ finish is suitable for heavy fabrics.
(a) Pinked edge.
(b) Edgestitch.
(c) Herringbone.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (c) Herringbone.
4. _________ finish is commonly used on sheer fabrics.
(a) Herringbone.
(b) Double stitch.
(c) Bound seam edge.
(d) Edgestitch.
Ans: (b) Double stitch.
5. Seam finishes are made to prevent _______ of the raw edges of the fabric/garment.
(a) Basting.
(b) Hemming.
(c) Fraying.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (c) Fraying.
B. Short answer questions :
1. Write short notes on the following:
(a) Bound seam edge finish.
Ans: In this method, the seam is pressed open and a separate piece of binding (a double folded bias strip) is attached to both the seam edges and tacked. It is often used on lightweight fabrics like silk, chiffon, etc.
(b) Herringbone finish.
Ans: This finish neatens the raw edges of heavy material like flannel, brocade, tweed, etc. It also holds down the turning, making the seam flat, avoiding the bulkiness.
To achieve this finish:
(i) After pressing the seam open, herringbone stitches are worked on the two raw edges.
(c) Pinked seam.
Ans: This is a quick method of finishing done with pinking shears(a kind of fabric cutting scissors).To finish the seam in the garment using pinking shears:
(i) After stitching, trim the edges, preferably at a distance of ⅛ inch by using pinking scissors (also called pinking shears). This type of seam finish is not suitable for fabrics that ravel badly.
(d) Edge stitch finish.
Ans: This is a neat finish for light to medium-weight, non- bulky fabrics. In this finish:
(i) The seam is stitched and pressed open.
(ii) Then turn under ¼ inch on each seam edge. Stitch close to the fold without catching the garment.
Edge stitched finish is a bulky type of finish and is not suitable for deeply curved seams. This finish is mostly used on unlined coats and jackets where the seam allowance is wide.
(e) Overlocked or serged finish.
Ans: This is a versatile seam finish which is suitable for all types of fabrics. These are specially used to finish the raw edges of sheer fabrics so that the inside of the seam appears neat through sheer fabrics. This is done by an overlock machine. The overlock machines can be of two types: 3 thread and 4 thread. Depending on the desired appearance the edge can be concealed using either of the two machines.
2. Explain the double stitch finish.
Ans: This type of finish is commonly used on sheer fabrics. This is done for a plain unfinished seam or pinked seam. It is not suitable for bulky fabrics. After making a plain seam, to carry out double stitch finish work an extra line of stitching is made about¼ inch from the raw edge of the fabric or garment.
C. Long answer question:
1. Describe various types of seam finishes and their use in detail along with diagrams.
Ans: Seam finishes are made to prevent fraying of the raw edges of the fabric or garment and thus, make the fabric edge more durable and attractive. They also provide a neat appearance to the inner side of the garment. Although seam finishes are not essential for completion of the garment, it can add durability to a garment’s life. There are various types of seam finishes. They may be carried out by hand stitches or by sewing machine. Some of the common seam finishes are described in this session.
(a) Pinked finish: This is a quick method of finishing done with pinking shears(a kind of fabric cutting scissors).To finish the seam in the garment using pinking shears:
(i) After stitching, trim the edges, preferably at a distance of ⅛ inch by using pinking scissors (also called pinking shears). This type of seam finish is not suitable for fabrics that ravel badly.
(b) Edge stitched finish: This is a neat finish for light to medium-weight, non- bulky fabrics. In this finish:
(i) The seam is stitched and pressed open.
(ii) Then turn under ¼ inch on each seam edge. Stitch close to the fold without catching the garment. Edge stitched finish is a bulky type of finish and is not suitable for deeply curved seams. This finish is mostly used on unlined coats and jackets where the seam allowance is wide.
(c) Double stitch finish: This type of finish is commonly used on sheer fabrics. This is done for a plain unfinished seam or pinked seam. It is not suitable for bulky fabrics. After making a plain seam, to carry out double stitch finish work an extra line of stitching is made about¼ inch from the raw edge of the fabric or garment.
(d) Herringbone finish: This finish neatens the raw edges of heavy material like flannel, brocade, tweed, etc. It also holds down the turning, making the seam flat, avoiding the bulkiness. To achieve this finish:
(i) After pressing the seam open, herringbone stitches are worked on the two raw edges.
(e) Bound seam edge finish: In this method, the seam is pressed open and a separate piece of binding (a double folded bias strip) is attached to both the seam edges and tacked. It is often used on lightweight fabrics like silk, chiffon, etc.
(f) Overlocked or serged finish: This is a versatile seam finish which is suitable for all types of fabrics. These are specially used to finish the raw edges of sheer fabrics so that the inside of the seam appears neat through sheer fabrics. This is done by an overlock machine. The overlock machines can be of two types: 3 thread and 4 thread. Depending on the desired appearance the edge can be concealed using either of the two machines.
| Session 4: Disposal of Fullness |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from the choices given below:
1. Darts are used to shape a flat piece of fabric to fit the __________ of a figure.
(a) Measurement.
(b) Curves.
(c) Silhouettes.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (b) Curves.
2. ________________ is a type of pleat in which two knife pleats turned towards each other so that the folds meet in the middle.
(a) Knife pleat.
(b) Inverted pleat.
(c) Box pleat.
(d) None.
Ans: (b) Inverted pleat.
3. ______________ are folds of fabric that provide ___________ is some parts of a garment.
(a) Darts, gathers.
(b) Pleats, shirring.
(c) Pleats, fullness.
(d) Tucks, gathers.
Ans: (c) Pleats, fullness.
4. The main function of a _________ pleat in a tailored garment is to provide fullness at the __________ of the garment.
(a) Knife, bottom.
(b) Box, top.
(c) Inverted box, middle.
(d) None of the above.
Ans: (a) Knife, bottom.
5. ____________ pleats are used quite often for uniforms.
(a) Box.
(b) Inverted box.
(c) Knife.
(d) Kick.
Ans: (a) Box.
B. Short answer questions:
1. Explain how fullness is introduced in garments.
Ans: A good fitted garment conforms well to the three dimensional body of the wearer. For a two dimensional fabric to fit a three dimensional body, fullness (extra amount of ease in the form of darts, pleats, gathers, tucks etc.) is added in the garment.
Fullness is introduced into garments for various reasons such as:
(i) To give precise shape.
(ii) Exact fit to the garment.
(iii) To allow freedom of movement.
(iv) Comfort to the wearer.
(v) To make the garment look attractive.
Darts, tucks, pleats, gathers etc. are some of the techniques for introducing fullness in the garment.
2. Define tucks. Explain the types of tucks along with diagrams.
Ans: These are folds of fabric which are stitched in place by straight rows of machine stitching. A tuck is similar to a pleat. The only difference between a pleat and a tuck is that a tuck is stitched at the base to keep the fold secure.
It is introduced in the garment to:
(a) Shape the garment to the body.
(b) Add fullness to the garment.
(c) Add decorative effect on different parts of the garment such as shoulders, waistlines, yokes, pockets or cuff of sleeves etc.
Tucks add body to thin fabrics and textural interest to plain fabrics. There are different types of tucks that can be used in garment construction.
The commonly used tucks are:
(i) Pin tucks: These are narrow folds of fabric that are stitched to the base. Pin tucks are usually used to add design features to a garment. To stitch each tuck, fold along the middle of the markings and tack or machine stitch about 1/8 inch wide from the fold.
(ii) Piped or Corded tucks: These are made by placing cord on the wrong side of the fabric at the center of the tuck before stitching the tuck. Stitching is done close to the cord.
(iii) Cross Tucks: These are stitched along the fabric in both horizontal and vertical directions, the decoration is called cross tucking. First, stitch the vertical tucks and press them to one side. Then stitch the horizontal tucks.
3. Describe pleats with diagrams.
Ans: These are folds of fabric that provide fullness in some parts of a garment. They can be placed single or in a series and can be pressed flat or left un-pressed, according to the style of the garment. Pressed pleats give a smooth, slimming line to a garment, whereas un-pressed pleats provide a softer and fuller shape.
There are different types of pleats that can be used in garment construction. Among more commonly used are:
(i) Knife pleats: These are usually about 1/2 inch to 1 inch wide and are turned towards the same direction.
Following are the steps for adding knife pleats in a garment:
(a) Make all the pleats in the same direction.
(b) Press them.
(c) Pleats can be top stitched in place to produce the slender effect.
The main function of a knife pleat in a tailored garment is to provide fullness at the bottom of the garment.
(ii) Box pleats: Two knife pleats turned away from each other (one to the left and one to the right) form a box pleat. These are mostly used for uniforms Box pleat
(iii) Inverted pleat: It is the opposite of a box pleat. It is made up of two knife pleats turned towards each other so that the folds meet in the middle on the right side of the garment. It is usually designed at centre front or centre back.
4. Write shorts notes on the following with diagram:
(a) Darts.
Ans: These are used to shape a flat piece of fabric to fit the curves of a figure. Darts are classified into two types:
(i) Single Pointed Dart: It is also called a standard dart and is triangular in shape i.e.wide at one end and pointed at the other end.
(ii) Double Pointed Dart: It is wide in the middle and pointed at both ends. They are used at the waist line of one-piece dresses.
(b) Shirring.
Ans: When several rows of gathering (3 or more) are used for a decorative finish these are termed as shirring. The rows should be evenly spaced. Shirring appears as a decorative feature at the shoulder, waistline, at the lower edge of a sleeve and usually at the narrower parts of garment.
Shirring can be done by these methods:
(i) Thread shirrs: here thread is used to form gathers.
(ii) Elasticised shirrs: here elastic is used to form gathers.
5. Discuss in detail about gathers.
Ans: Gathering is an effective and decorative way of distributing fullness over a given area. Gathers are graceful folds of fabric that provide fullness, suggesting a soft look, which can be made using machine or hand stitches. These are formed by drawing the fabric together on a line of stitching and may be used to control the fullness at yoke lines, waist lines, neck lines and upper and lower edge of sleeves.
(i) Gathering by hand: It is done by working one row of running stitches above the seam line. Draw the ends of threads until the section measures the desired length and secure the thread.
(ii) Gathering by machine: It is done by making a seam line on the right side of the fabric by adjusting the machine for long stitch and loosen the upper tension slightly. Now work two rows of machine stitches, one above the seam line and another below the seam line, distribute the fullness evenly by pulling both bobbin threads together.
(iii) Gathering by using elastic: It can be made by stretching a narrow strip of elastic and stitching on the part of the garment which is to be gathered.
| Session 5: Fasteners, Plackets and Trims |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the Blanks:
1. ______________ are slits cut in garments to hold buttons in place.
Ans: Buttonholes.
2. Trimming material may be __________ or ____________.
Ans: Functional or decorative.
3. __________ are applied on the edge of the garments.
Ans: Edgings.
4. Braids are produced by __________ yarn/__________ fabric diagonally in a form of Plaiting.
Ans: Interlacing, twisted.
B. Find the following words in the given maze:
(a) Fold.
(b) Stitch.
(c) Lacing.
(d) Hook.
(e) Zipper.
(f) Button.
(g) Shank.
(h) Snaps.
(i) Studs.
(j) Placket.
Ans:
C. Short answer questions:
1. Explain different types of fasteners and write their uses.
Ans: The different types of fasteners and their uses are as under:
(a) Hooks and Eyes: Hooks and eyes are small but comparatively strong fasteners. Though they are mostly applied at single point of a garment opening, such as waistband or neckline, they can also be used to fasten an entire opening. There are several types of hooks and eyes, each designed to serve a particular purpose.
(i) Hook: It is always sewn on to the back of the overlap of the garment. Work overcasting stitches around the rings and across the bar of the hook.
(ii) Eye: It is of two types.
Metal Eye: To fix metal eyes (round or straight) work buttonhole stitches around the rings along the fabric.
Thread Eye: It is done by marking two points by positioning the hook. A thread eye is sewn as long as the space between its two placements marks. Insert needle into fabric at one mark and bring it up at the other mark. Apply 2 -3 more stitches in the same way. Cover all the strands with closely spaced blanket stitches, taking care not to catch the fabric beneath. When finished, bring the needle and thread to the wrong side and fasten securely.
2. Explain different types of plackets with diagram.
Ans: Types of plackets: There are different types of plackets such as French placket, concealed placket, classic front placket, partial button placket, bound placket etc.
Some of the plackets are shown in figures:
(a) French placket: A French placket is type of placket which is made by folding the placket edge inwards and no stitching is visible on the outer side of the garment. This gives a neat look to the packet. These are generally used in shirts.
(b) Concealed placket: A concealed placket is a placket where the fasteners are hidden under the top layer of the placket. This type of placket can be used in kurta, shirts, skirts, dresses etc.
(c) Classic front placket: A classic front is a type of placket in which either a separate strip is added to create a placket or the fabric is folded and stitched to create a visible strip of raised fabric. This placket gives symmetry to the garment. It can be majorly be seen in formal shirts.
(d) Bound placket: A bound placket is a type of placket which is added in the garment as a finished edge of a slit. These are generally seen in sleeves, children wear, women’s wear.
(e) Partial button placket A partial button placket is a type of placket which extends to a short distance instead of the full length of the garment. This is generally seen in kurta.
3. Write short notes on:
(a) Eyelets.
Ans: Eyelets are mainly used for lacing front openings decoratively. To make an eyelet cut a circular hole and work buttonhole stitches around it.
(b) Zippers.
Ans: These are made of metal or nylon chains. The nylon chain is lighter in weight and more flexible than the metal chain. There are six basic types of zippers and it is important to select one designed for your particular purpose.
Some of these commonly used zippers are explained below:
(i) Skirt zipper: It is available in 7 or 9-inch length and opens at the top.
(ii) Dress zipper: It is closed at the upper edge with a bridge top stop, available in 10, 12 and 14-inch lengths. Use the longest length in tight – fitting dresses.
(iii) Neckline zipper: It opens at the top and used for necklines, sleeves, housecoats or underarm blouse plackets.
(c) Worked button holes.
Ans: It can be made by hand or by machine (ordinary machine or with an automatic machine which has a buttonhole attachment). Hand or machine worked buttonholes are made on the face of the garment after the garment is completed.
(d) Laces and braids.
Ans: Laces:
(i) The term lace refers to the type of open structure. It was earlier made by hand but now machine-made laces are commonly available.
(ii) Laces are soft trims.
(iii) Lace is used both for decorative and functional element in clothing.
(iv) Scalloped edge laces are also available.
(v) Laces are used in blouses (top), dresses, lingerie (women undergarment), bed linen, napkins, handkerchiefs etc.
Braids:
(ii) Braids are both detachable and fixed.
(ii) Braids are narrow flat fabric or type of narrow tube structures similar to shoe laces.
(iii) Braids are produced by interlacing yarn /twisted fabric diagonally in a form of plaiting.
(iv) Can be used in binding around medium and heavy weight garments.
(v) Can be made from polyester, wool and acrylic.
(e) Tassels.
Ans: (i) These are used to add design element to the garment.
(ii) It is a soft trim which is used at various places in a garment to create emphasis.
(iii) These are used at the necklines, sleeve edges, borders, side slits etc.
4. Explain the different types of trims.
Ans: Trimming material is the material used to provide functionality and/or decoration to the garments or any other article. Trims are mainly the decorative material, surface treatment, or detail such as braids, laces, tassels, piping, ribbons, sequins etc. that are used to embellish a garment or an article. There are various types of trims. Decorative trims are like tassels, embroidered appliqués, patch, and lace etc. These are purely used to increase the garments appeal, enhance the aesthetics of the garment. Functional trims like label, binding, edging etc. are also used in a garment.
There are many trimming material available in the market, it can be selected as per the requirement of the garment or article some of them are given below:
(a) Tassels:
(i) These are used to add design element to the garment.
(ii) It is a soft trim which is used at various places in a garment to create emphasis.
(iii) These are used at the necklines, sleeve edges, borders, side slits etc.
(b) Laces and braids:
Laces:
(i) The term lace refers to the type of open structure. It was earlier made by hand but now machine-made laces are commonly available.
(ii) Laces are soft trims.
(iii) Lace is used both for decorative and functional elements in clothing.
(iv) Scalloped edge laces are also available.
(v) Laces are used in blouses (top), dresses, lingerie (women’s undergarments), bed linen, napkins, handkerchiefs etc.
Braids:
(i) Braids are both detachable and fixed.
(ii) Braids are narrow flat fabric or type of narrow tube structures similar to shoe laces.
(iii) Braids are produced by interlacing yarn /twisted fabric diagonally in a form of plaiting.
(iv) Can be used in binding around medium and heavy weight garments.
(v) Can be made from polyester, wool and acrylic.
(c) Binding: are functional trims and are used to the finishing of edge of the garment. Like Hem finishing, Necklines, Armholes, Opening.
(d) Edgings: are applied on the edge in the garments like hem, ruffles, piping, laces, ribbons, tapes, etc. These are commonly used to finish bottom hem, sleeve edges, neck openings etc.
| Session 6: Garment Components |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the Blanks:
1. ___________ is the part of the garment which covers the arm at different levels.
Ans: Sleeve.
2. A collar is a component of a garment around the________________.
Ans: Neckline.
3. A yoke is a __________ pattern piece that forms the part of a garment.
Ans: Shaped.
4. ___________ pockets are sewn inside a seam.
Ans:In-seam.
B. Short answer questions:
1. Write the uses of collars and explain their different types?
Ans: A collar is a component of a garment around the neckline. It is also one of the ways to finish a neckline. A collar is a shaped piece of fabric that is visible out of the garment neckline and adds to the design interest in the garment. It serves both functional and decorative purposes. It may vary in width and length or be one piece or two pieces, as per the desired design. Variation of collars may be added by introducing minor changes in the corners from pointed to square, round, curved, scalloped, square or in any direction. Collars require careful sewing. A well-made collar circles the neck without rippling or pulling and has a neat appearance. Pointed tips of both the sides are precise. The edges of the collar are smooth and flat.
Types of Collars:
(i) Flat collars: Are those collars that lie flat on the body regardless of the shape of the neckline. When worn they do not rise up along the neck. For this they have to be made using the shape of the neckline and have to be applied or attached on. Examples are flat peter-pan, sailor’s, bertha, cape and puritan collar.
(a) Peter pan collar: It is a round flat collar, which can be one piece or two pieces. It sits flat and has a rounded front collar edge; however, the designer can change the outer collar edge to any shape. It looks nice and gentle on children’s clothing.
(b) Sailor collar: It has a wide band at the back that is tailored down to a deep ‘V’ neck at the front. It is a design feature of traditional sailors’ uniforms hence it is called the sailor collar. It is often used for children’s outfits and summer clothing.
(ii) Standing collars: It extends above the neck seam line of the garment. This is a close fitting collar which stands up stiffly against the neck. It is cut on the bias in two pieces with an opening at the front or the back. Most standing collars are straight, but they can be curved so that they stand at a slight angle. Mandarin, stand, polo, etc. are the type of standing collar.
(a) Mandarin Collar: It is slightly more shaped and fits closer to the neck; it is also called Military, Nehru Jacket and Chinese collar.
(b) Stand Collar: It is a band which stands up over the neck seam line.
(c) Polo Collar: It is close fitted, round and high collar that folds over and covers the neck. It is always cut on bias.
(iii) Rolled collars: Are different from flat collars by a roll line that breaks the collar into stand and fall areas. It is made from one piece of fabric cut on the bias and folded in half before stitching. First stands up from the neck edge, then falls down to rest on the garment. The line at which the collar begins to fall is called the roll line. Shirt collar, shawl collar etc. are the type of rolled collar.
(a) Shirt collar: A band is composed of two separate pattern pieces, the band and a collar section. A seam attaches the stand and fall of the collar along the roll line. The band or the collar stand is designed with a button and buttonhole closures.
(b) Shawl collar: It is a design in which the collar is cut as an extension of the front bodice and then stitched together at the center back. The collar folds over the front of the garment and rolls back to create a lapel. This collar is always worn open. The basic shawl collar is developed by attaching a full roll collar to the bodice front.
2. Explain different types of sleeves.
Ans: Types of Sleeves:
(i) Set-in-sleeves: It is a sleeve that is attached with the armhole of the body of the garment. They are eased, gathered and stitched into the bodice armhole seam to create variations in the sleeves. Design modifications in the sleeves are possible like length, amount of fullness, and hemline finishes creating a variety of sleeve styles, they can be fitted or flared, and cut to any length. Puff, petal, bell, cap, bishop, leg-o-mutton, cowl etc. are the type of set-in sleeves.
(a) Puff sleeve: It is a sleeve with gathers/fullness either on both top and bottom or only at top or bottom. There are three types of basic puff sleeves, those with fullness at hem, fullness at cap and at both hem and cap.
(b) Petal sleeve: It is joined at the top two edges overlapping. There will be no underarm seam for this sleeve. It resembles a petal as the sleeve sections cross over each other at the cap. This is also known as tulip sleeve, crisscross sleeve or overlapped sleeve.
(c) Bell sleeve: It has a full flare at the hem giving it a bell shape. It falls into flare at the lower edge creating a bell shape. Bell sleeves may have varied length; it can be finished with a facing or narrow hem.
(d) Cap sleeves: They are very short sleeves which only cover the upper part of the arm. The cap sleeve is often self-lined.
(e) Bishop sleeve: It is a long, full sleeve which fares out at sleeve edge which is either shirred, pleated, tucked or darted into a cuff, binding or elastic, giving it a balloon like appearance at the sleeve edge.
(f) Leg-o-mutton sleeve: It is gathered at the cap and tapered from elbow downwards for tight fit from elbow to wrist. The sleeve adopts a puffed sleeve look at top but has a tapered fit from the elbow onwards which gives it the look of the leg of mutton.
(ii) Sleeve bodice combination: Patterns may be developed with the sleeve and the bodice attached, thereby eliminating the armhole seam. Three basic sleeves in this category are the raglan sleeve, dolman or magyar and the kimono sleeve.
(a) Raglan sleeve: It is a sleeve in which part of the sleeve is combined with part of the bodice armhole and shoulder area. Raglan is extended to accommodate the top part of the bodice, achieving a yoke effect. This sleeve is joined to the bodice with a diagonal seam running from the underarm at front and at back to the neckline. It has many variations, from fitted to loose, from hemmed or gathered into a cuff. A raglan sleeve can be cut in one piece with a dart at the shoulder or with an outside seam to help shape the shoulder. Different cuts and fabrics affect the look of raglan sleeves.
(b) Kimono sleeve: It is a long one piece sleeve that is an extension of the bodice and extends to the wrist. They are cut with the bodice; the bodice front and sleeve front are one pattern and the bodice back and sleeve back are one pattern. The shoulder seam extends from the neckline to the wrist line and is called the over arm seam; the side seam of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeve are joined in one continuous seam line.
(c) Dolman or Magyar: In this sleeve the bodice and the sleeve are one piece with no armhole. The sleeve is cut as an extension of the bodice. The sleeve would be best as 3-quarter length or even wrist length. Sometimes a gusset is added to the underarm for ease. When the arm is bent or is dropped, a very dramatic folds form. Dolman sleeves are similar to kimono sleeves with more fullness at the armhole seam line.
3. Explain cuffs and its different types.
Ans: Cuffs are the banded or turned-back finishes at the lower edges of sleeves and pant legs. Crisp, well-constructed cuffs contribute to the overall appearance of a garment’s quality. Cuffs are made by turning back (folding) the material or garment by attaching a separate band of material. A cuff may be made with an ornamental border or it may be decorated with some other trimming.
Types of Cuffs:
(i) Barrel cuff: It is the most common type of cuff which is straight, open-band cuff style. Long sleeved shirts and blouses usually feature barrel cuffs. The barrel cuff laps and buttons at the wrist.
(a) One button barrel cuff: More subtle and shorter in length.
(b) Long one button barrel cuff: More formal and longer in length.
(ii) Rounded cuff: It is used for formal wear.
(iii) Mitered cuff:
(a) One button mitered cuff: The one button mitered cuff is a dressy cuff. It has elegant mitered angled at the button closure.
(b) Two button mitered cuff: The two-button mitered cuff is a popular dress shirt cuff.
(iv) French cuff: It is the most formal style of open- band cuff. The French cuff is constructed like the barrel cuff but twice as wide. The cuff is folded back on itself so the cuff is doubled. The opening edges are superimposed rather than lapped and fastened with cufflinks or studs through the buttonhole in each layer.
4. Explain pockets and their types.
Ans: A pocket is a piece of fabric attached on the outside of a garment or into a garment seam or opening. They are used to carry small articles, such as handkerchiefs or coins. Besides being functional, they add style to the design of the garment. Pockets are designed in a variety of sizes and shapes.
Types of Pockets :
(i) Patch Pockets: Are stitched on the outside of the garment and can be functional and decorative. It may have rounded or square corners at the base. A patched flap for the pocket can be made to match. Patch pockets can be applied on pants, shirts, skirts, blouses, jackets, or coats.
(ii) In-seam pockets: Are sewn inside a seam. They can be placed anywhere along the seam. The in-seam pocket needs to be stitched neatly into the side seam of a garment. It is not visible when the garment is worn. Usually, they are placed inside the side seam of the waist to hipline, because the hands naturally fall at that length and accessing the pockets is easy.
(iii) Hip pockets: Are the curved pocket design on the back side of the pants, trousers and skirts. It is stitched into a cut opening made with a single or double welt, with or without a pocket flap. These are usually referred to as “bound” pockets. They differ only in the style of the welts and/or flaps that are sewn into the slashed opening. The four most common bound pockets are:(a)The welt bound pocket, (b) The one-piece bound buttonhole pocket, (c)The lined bound buttonhole pocket, (d)The bound flap pocket.
(iv) Inside set-in pocket or slash pocket: It is stitched into a cut opening made with a single or double welt, with or without a pocket flap. These are usually referred to as “bound” pockets. They differ only in the style of the welts and/or flaps that are sewn into the slashed opening.
The four most common bound pockets are:
(a) The welt bound pocket.
(b) The one-piece bound buttonhole pocket.
(c) The lined bound buttonhole pocket.
(d) The bound flap pocket.
5. Describe the different types of yokes.
Ans: Types of Yoke:
(i) Round Yoke: It is a round shaped yoke. Mostly used on curved areas in a garment such as necklines.
(ii) Straight yoke: It is a straight piece of fabric which is attached to the garment in the form of a yoke.
(iii) Square yoke: It is a square piece of fabric which is attached to the garment in the form of a yoke. It is mostly used at the necklines.
(iv) V’ Shape yoke: It is a V-shaped piece of fabric which is attached to the garment in the form of a yoke. This yoke is mostly used at waistline or midriff.
6. Explain different types of necklines with diagram.
Ans: A neckline is the opening in a garment that creates space for the wearer’s head to slip into the garment.
Necklines are finished mainly in two ways: One by facing and other by binding. Piping or binding can be of the same or contrasting colour and can be used on the neck of any shape. If one is not using a piping then in round necks a bias strip is used, which is stitched and turned inside and hemmed. For the rest of the necks facing is necessary.
For the garments with lining, stitch the lining at the neck with its right face touching the right face of fabric, and turn it inwards. In this finishing, there is no need for piping or facing. In this case, after turning inwards the lining gives a fine stitching on the edge of the neck.
The neckline in width is taken as 1/12 chest (folded fabric) is total 1/6 chest – in depth according to the 1/6 chest +1.3mm However, it differs according to the choice of the customer.
Necklines are classified as:
(i) Standard or Basic.
(ii) High or Raised.
(iii) Scooped (Widthwise, lengthwise or both).
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