Class 12 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 1 Drafting Cutting and Sewing Process of Garments Solutions English Medium As Per AHSEC New Syllabus to each chapter is provided in the list so that you can easily browse through different chapters Class 12 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 1 Drafting Cutting and Sewing Process of Garments Question Answer and select need one. Class 12 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 1 Drafting Cutting and Sewing Process of Garments Notes Download PDF. AHSEC Class 12 Elective Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Question Answer English Medium.
Class 12 Apparel Made Ups and Home Furnishing Chapter 1 Drafting Cutting and Sewing Process of Garments
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Drafting Cutting and Sewing Process of Garments
Chapter: 1
| Session 1: Measurement Techniques of Men |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the Blanks:
1. The measurement of a man’s lower garment is usually taken when he is wearing a_________.
Ans: Shirt or t-shirt with trousers.
2. Length of garment: Measure from the bone at the _________of the neck to length required.
Ans: Highest shoulder point.
3. Sleeve length for one-piece sleeve: Measure from___________ bone to ________bone.
Ans: Shoulder bone to wrist bone.
4. __________shapes: The line of side seam often has to be adjusted as the shape of the hip can vary.
Ans: Hip.
B. Questions:
1. Explain the important points to be kept in mind while taking men’s measurements.
Ans: The important points that must be kept in mind while taking men’s measurements are:
(i) For taking body measurements, the body should be relaxed and not stiff.
(ii) The measurements are usually taken when the person is wearing a shirt or t-shirt with trousers. The pockets of trousers should be empty.
(iii) A string or elastic should be tied around the waist to establish the natural waistline.
(iv) When measuring the circumferences keep in mind to hold the tape horizontally and perfectly parallel to the floor.
(v) Do not measure by keeping the tape too tight; let it lay flat on the body.
(vi) Make sure to hold your tape from the right end.
(vii) Take the exact body measurements in inches without any extra ease and seam allowance.
(viii) Except for the back length, one should avoid using the measurements of garments that fit the person giving measurements.
| Session 2: Drafting and Construction of Kalidar Kurta and Chudidar Pyjama |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the Blanks:
1. This dress is mostly preferred by North Indian________.
Ans: Men.
2. A chudidar pyjama is cut on bias material to get a nice fit below________.
Ans: Knee.
3. ______________ is worn with Khamis, Punjabi Kurta, Jodhpur coat, Shervani etc.
Ans: Churidar Pyjama.
B. Questions:
1. Explain drafting and steps of construction of kalidar kurta.
Ans: Instructions for Drafting:
Front Body:
1-0 = full length + 1” for turning.
Square out lines from 0 and 1.
2-0 = shoulder width + ½”
3-1 = 2-0
Join 2 and 3
4-0 = 1/6 neck + ½” for ease.
5-0 = 1/6 neck + 1”.
Shape the front neck from 4 to 5 as shown.
B-5 = 0.5’’.
Cut the opening B to C = 9”
Back Body:
6-0 – 1.5”.
Shape the neck from 4 to 6.
All the other points are the same as shown in the front body.
Sleeve:
7-2 = ½ of shoulder
8-2 = the sleeve length + 1” for a seam on the line 2-7. No seam allowance is kept on the line 8-9 because selvedge side of the cloth is generally kept here otherwise turning in allowance should be added.
9-8 = 2-7 less ½”
Kali (Side – panels):
10-7 = ½” for seam
11-10 = one-twelfth (1/12) of chest
12-3 = 7-2 = 8”
Join 11 to 12
13-12 = ½”.
Shape from 13 to 3.
14-11 = 8” for women and 9” for men
15-14 = 6”. This pocket position can be lowered if necessary.
16-13 = 8” for women and 9” for men
A slit is kept from 16 downwards.
Bagal (gusset):
A square piece of 5” (one-sixth chest less 1”) is joined to the sleeve and Kali and is folded diagonally as shown by dash line.
Join side seam, attach sleeve to body. Then attach Kali piece to the armhole and stitch. On the left side of the garment, pocket should be stitched.
Construction or Stitching method:
(i) According to the pattern; layout all the cut panels, mark seam allowances and cut the fabric.
(ii) Stitch run and fell seam on the shoulder of front and back.
(iii) Join the bagal pieces with both kali or side panels.
(iv) Side seam line should be attached to the sleeve as shown in the figure.
(v) Attach the sleeve with the body.
(vi) Fold the kali piece and keep it on the armhole and stitch it.
(vii) On the front neck portion cut open to attach continuous placket and stitch.
(viii) Finish the neckline, using a bias strip.
(ix) Bottom edges of sleeves and kurta should be folded and stitched.
(x) When stitching the side seams, pocket should be attached on the left side of the kurta. A 2” slit can be left open at hem of both the side.
(xi) Once the garment is stitched, it is pressed and ironed.
2. Explain churidar pyjama with its drafting and steps of construction.
Ans: Instruction for Drafting:
Square lines from 0, fold at 0-4.
1-0 = one-fourth seat + 3”
3-0 = full length
3-4 = 10”
0-2 = waist to knee length
Square out from 1,2 and 4.
6-1 = one-fourth seat + 2”.
Square up to 5.
7-6 = 2”
Join and shape 5-7 as shown.
8-2 = half knee round+ 1 ½” for ease
9-4 = half ankle round+ 1 ½” for ease
Join and shape 7-8-9 as shown.
10-9 = 4” for ankle opening.
Keep 2” above 0-5 for casing and 2” below 4-9, for in turns.
Construction or Stitching Process:
(i) Join the crotch of front side by taking both the pieces of leg starting from 2” below 6 to 7. Also join the other side of crotch from 7 to 6 and straight ½” inside 12.
(ii) Finish the opening of casing starting from 12 to 2” below point 6.
(iii) Now finish the casing by turning it 2” inside.
(iv) Join the legs by taking 1/2” seam on wrong side.
(v) Finish the hemline by turning 2” the wrong side.
| Session 3: Drafting and Construction of Katori Blouse and Circular Skirt |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks:
1. Katori Blouse is an origin of _________.
Ans: Rajasthan.
2. In circular skirt joint should be taken at the back, before cutting the _____________.
Ans: Side opening.
3. Circular skirt is generally cut without a seam at th ______________, but for the need of sufficient width of cloth, it may be cut in______ pieces and joined together.
Ans: Circumference, two.
B. Questions:
1. Explain drafting of Katori blouse.
Ans: Drafting of Katori Blouse – Front:
Measurements Required:
(i) Bust 34”
(ii) Waist 28”
(iii) Length 14”
(iv) Shoulder 14”
(v) Sleeve length 10”
(vi) Armhole 15”
(vii) Around the arm 10”
Front:
0-1 = full length – 2” (for separate belt) + 1/2”
0-6, 1-5 = ½ of shoulder
0-2, 6-7 = ½ of armhole
2-3, 1-13 = ¼ of bust + 1.5
0-11 = 3”
0-12 = 6”
Give shape to front neckline by joining 11 to 12
6-10 = ¾”
Join 10 to 11 for shoulder slope
8 is the centre point of 6 to 7
8-9 = ¾”
7-26 = 1”
Give a curve to front armhole by joining 10, 9, 26, 3.
20-5, 17-1 = 2”
1-23 = 1” & 5-21 = 1 ¾”
Join 20 to 21 and 17 to 23
17-18 and 23-22 = 1”
Join 18-23
15 is the centre point of 20-18
24 is the centre point of 21-22
Draw a dart of ½” on line 24 to 15
20-19 and 16-17 = ¾”
Join 19, 14, 16 with a curve
25 is the centre point of 11-27Join 19 to 25 with a curve
1-4 = ¼ of waist +1 ½”
Join 4 to 3 for side seam
Lower belt:
29-31, 28-30 = 1-13
28-29, 30-31 = 3”
28-32 = 1”
Curve from 30-32
Back Part:
32-33, 34-35 = full length + 1/2”
32-34, 33-35 = ¼ of bust +1 ½”
32-38, 36-41 = ½ of shoulder
32-36, 38-41 = ½ of armhole
32-47 = 3”
32-48 = 4”
Give a shape to back neckline by joining 47-48
38-39 = ¾”
Join 47-39 for shoulder slope
40 is the centre point of 38-41
Join 39, 40, 37 for back armhole
Back dart:
33-43 = 4”
43-44 = 5”
Join dart legs 43 to 46 = ½”
Join dart legs 46 to 44 and 45 to 44
33-42 = 1/4 of waist +1 ½”
Join 37 to 42 for side seam.
Sleeve Pattern:
A-B & C-D = ½ of Armhole (15’’/2=7.5’’)
A-C & B-D = 7’’ for sleeve length
B-E = 4’’
Join A-E with a straight line. G is the centre point of A-E.
G-Katori = ¾”
G-I = ½”
Give a shape to front armhole by joining AIE
Give a shape to back armhole by joining AHE
C-F = ½ of around the arm + 1’’
Join E-F with a straight line.
2. Explain drafting of circular skirt with the help of diagrams.
Ans: Drafting of Circular Skirt:
Measurements Required:
Waist – 28”
Full length – 16”
Belt width – 1½”
Instructions for Drafting:
On eight layer fold of pattern paper draw a triangle
Mark a point 1 on line 0-3.
1-0 = one-sixth waist – ¼”
Mark a point 2 on line 0-5.
Join 1-2 in a curve
3-1 = 4-2 full length less belt width + ¼”
Join 3-4 in a curve
Cut along the line 1-2-4-3.
The unfolded pattern will be a complete circle.
| Session 4: Drafting and Construction Nehru Kurta, Pant Pajama and Single Breast Waist Coat |
| Check Your Progress |
A. Fill in the blanks:
1. Nehru Kurta is prepared with one or two patch pockets at the chest and two pockets at both the ______________________ .
Ans: Side seams.
2. ________________is prepared with a casing and a zip opening at the waist.
Ans: Pant pyjama.
3. _______________ is a single type of waistcoat, without a collar and 3-4 welt pockets.
Ans: Single breast waist coat.
B. Questions:
1. Explain layout of Nehru kurta with the help of diagrams.
Ans: Following is a suggestive layout for this garment with 38” chest and 32” width of cloth. 2.5 meters will be required (i.e. twice the full length plus sleeve length. Both with inlays).
Layout of Nehru kurta
2. Explain drafting of pant pyjama.
Ans: Front Body:
On fold of fabric draw a line 0-1-2
1-0 = ¼ seat + 3”.
2-0 = full length + ½”.
3-1 = ¼ seat + 2 ½”
4-0 = 3 – 1.
Join 3-4.
5-3 = 1/12 seat.
6-3 = 1/6 seat.
7-3 = half of 5 to 3 + ¼”.
Shape fork 6-7-5.
8-2 = 5-1 – ¾”, or half bottom.
9-5 = ¾”.
Join 9-8 and shape 5-10 as shown.
Back:
11-0 = ¼ seat + 1 ½”.
Mark a point 12 = 1 ¼” above 11.
Join 9-12
Join 12-0
13-5 = 1 ½”
Shape fork 11-12-13 as shown.
15-8 = 1”.
Shape inseam 13-15.
Keep 1 ½” above 0-4 and 0-12 for casing.
Keep 2” below 2-8 and 2-15 for hem fold.
Pocket marks: 16-0 = 7.5 cm (3”).
17-16 = 1/6 seat.
3. Explain drafting of single breast waist coat with the help of diagram.
Ans: Front Body:
0-1 = full length
0-2 = 4-3 = ½ of shoulder +1”
0-4 = 3-2 = 1-9 = ½ of shoulder
2-13 = 1-14 = ¼ chest + 2”
0-10 = Waist length
1-28 = 4”
28-29 = 3”
Join 1,29,9,14
0-6 = 3.5”
0-31 = 9” (may vary as per choice)
Join 31-6 for front neckline.
4-5 = 3/4”.
Join 6-5 for shoulder slope.
7 is the centre point of 4-3.
7-8 = 1”
3-12 = 13-30 = 1”
Shape the front armhole by joining 5-8-30.
2-13 = 10-15 = 1-14
10-17 = 1/4th of waist + 2”
10-15 = 1/4 of chest + 2”
15-16 = 15-17 = 3/4th on each side
Shape the side seam by joining 30,17,14.
11 is a Slit pocket cut of 4” length and 1” width.
Back Body:
20-21 = full length
20-23 = ½ of shoulder
23-13 = 21-14 = ¼ of chest + 2”
20-26 = 23-19 = ½ of shoulder
20-22 = waist length
20-25 = 3.5”
25-24 = ½”
Join 20-24 in a smooth curve for back neck
19-18 = 1”
Join 24-26 for back shoulder slope
27 is centre point of 26-19
Shape the back armhole by joining 26,27,30.
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